B16 is the MOST over-rated engine EVER.

 

like i said, "somethings never change."

 

Engine: H22a[/b], sleeved/built, 9:1 comp, 88mm bore, stock stroke, stock cams, golden eagle intake manifold, bbk 70mm tb

Mods: Peak boost El manifold, tial 44mm wg, gt35r .82a/r, 3" dp, 3" exhaust, no cat, 3" charge pipes, precision "large" intercooler, precision 1000cc injectors, walbro 255lph HP pump, AEM 3.5 bar map sensor, turbo xs dual stage boost controller

Tuning on 16psi on 93 octane and 28psi on c16:





Engine: Sleeved, 9:1 compression b16a engine, ferrea valvetrain, stock b16a cams, FR cam gears, edelbrock IM

Mods: FR t4 manifold, t4/sc61 .58a/r housing, 3" Epic tuning v-band downpipe, 3" Epic tuning v-band exhaust, no cat, tial 44mm gate, Epic tuning v-band dumptube under oil pan, custom aluminum charge pipes, precision intercooler, precision 1000cc injectors, walboro 255lph HP pump, 3bar map sensor, Greddy E-01 boost controller

Tuning at 16psi on pump gas:


Ok screw looking at the hp levels, look at the builds and more importantly look at the tq. You can have 275 ft lbs of tq at 7500rpm or you can have right at 450 ft lbs of tq at 5500rpm. It takes the B16 till 5500rpm to make fully built and boosted to make stock H22hp numbers and your talking double the power and tq for the H22 in that same range built. And if you notice the GT35 on the H22 is to small for it to take advantage of what the engine has.

Also as far as the weight of the H22it is no worse than a D or B series setup with a turbo strapped on it and with some of the cheaper mounts for B series it actually leans the engines top towards the front bumper slightly which takes away from the center of gravity which is what is important. A bolt on B16 hatch is a high 14 second car, a bolt on hatch with a H22 is a easy high 13 second car.

The H will be around the same price in the end but what it boils down to is that you will get around 40 more whp and 40 more wtq for free. Tq is so important and people do not realize that, with that 40 more ft lbs of tq you will be able to climb hills and pass without shifting as much, the car will not fall on it's face low in the rpm's like a smaller engine, and in all reality you could strap a supercharger on the stock engine and with good tuning make more than enough power and tq to have a damn quick car, still get good milage, not over tax your engine, not have to rev the **** out of it to get going, and is going to feel so much faster.

 

Ok but I have a turbo setup, I do want the extra power from the H22a, but I wouldnt want to build up the whole engine just so I could use my turbo setup, it would be too expensive.
I want anLSD transmission,do the h22a's come withthese?Lots of people suggest the H2B adaptor plate, is there anything wrong with the H22's tranny?
Thanks

 

did you even read any of the stuff that was previously posted above???

 

Ok dude seriously, stop considering the b16. In all honesty i think they are a waste of time. Hell most of the time a b18b will beat a b16 in a civic. It's just so over rated with no torque.

What's with all the rumors of h22's not being able to handle. Guys they really don't weight that much more, if you ever drive with a passenger, they weight less than that. If it honestly bothers you, run some stiffer springs up front.

Also, with the introduction of h2b and h2d kits, the h22's really aren't that much harder to swap. These kits mate the h22 engine with the b or d series transmissions. This is great for three reasons, one they have shorter gearing and are faster, two they are lighter than the h22 transmission (again helping with the weight that isn't really much of a problem anyway), and three you can reuse some stuff you have saving you money (if you already have a d or b series transmission).

LSD is a good idea, go for it.

Nothing is wrong with the H22 tranny, it just is longer than the others, so you will go faster with the d or b series tranny's, you will save money, and you won't have to do all the bitchin work with the h22 shift linkage.

I know much of this was said, but he just doesn't seem to be getting it, so i'm trying to help.

 

if your worried about not being able to lower the car because it will rub then get a slimmer moroso oil pan. I have already stated what i would do

 

I'm not saying the H22 is a ton of extra weight (I believe it's somewhere in the 120-150lbs region), but it's where the weight is that affects the handling. How many of you people have ever driven with a passenger sitting above the axles? Location of added weight does make a difference. Now, I'm obviously not speaking from experience, so I can only repeat what I've heard time and time again.

Anyways, the reason most people choose the b16 is pure convenience; I've heard you can do a complete b16 swap in less than a day, wheras the h22 swap usually requires a little modification.

(as a side note, now everyone has me questioning what swap I want when I get one, since my original choice was b16 or h22lol)

 

Sorry I just edited my last post, I hope its not too frusterating now. Anyone have some sugegstions?

 

lol werddddd


imo b16s are decent motors, i dont think their over rated and with the rite mods their pretty good, if i had the money id go for a gsr, i dont agree with all of this h22 is easy to swap in almost like a b16, it is nothing as easy compared to a b16, my friend swappped in a h22 and his hood didnt close, he had to buy a new hood and this was just one of the many problems he ran into