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Seafoaming on a car over 150K

Old 02-20-2007, 07:47 PM
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Default Seafoaming on a car over 150K

Why is seafoaming a car over 150K not a good idea? My car just recently turned over 150,000 but I never knew about seafoam until a few weeks ago.
Old 02-20-2007, 09:34 PM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

I don't honestly think there is much of a difference, unless the engine is just running like crap, old as heck, and in need of a huge internal tune-up.

I can't see why it would make anything worse. Like others have said, it might eat through some rubber here and there, but if its only in the engine for a day or two, like in the crank case right before an oil change, and in the fuel tank for 1 day or so, etc.. I would think it won't hurt.

Don't ask me though, I am just about to try it for the first time at 115k. Maybe someone here has done it way beyond that mark.
Old 02-20-2007, 09:52 PM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

I did mine first at 120k miles and it's still running at 130k.

There are a lot of old wive's tales of carb cleaner and seafoam blowing up old engines... but it's just a bunch of crap. People are basically saying that all the gunk that you clean out is holding the engine together LOL.
Old 02-20-2007, 10:06 PM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

well my rear main seal (i think it is) leaked out all the oil after seafoaming but it was like 1000 miles after i seafoamed

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Old 02-20-2007, 10:09 PM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

I just did my car about 20 minutse ago. I have about 90,000 on my engine. I only put it through the vac line just to see what happens. I'll put some in the fuel next time i fill up.
Old 02-20-2007, 10:14 PM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

i seafoamed my hatch ataround 230,000 did not hurt anything and that engineworn out, quart of oil every 100 miles chatters a lot makes all kinds of sounds. all my friends have used it rangeing from 80k, 200k.... i ran 3 cans in my hatch 2 in the gas tank one in the oil, never changed theoilIMO it changes itself every 400 miles hahaha
Old 02-20-2007, 11:50 PM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

did my car at about 173k(few months ago) and still running fine. when u do it, just take ur time. i suggest putting a lil thru the vac line, drive the car around a lil bit, then do it a gain, drive around, and so on till ur done..
Old 02-21-2007, 09:48 AM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

thanks guys.
Old 02-22-2007, 10:10 PM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

wait a sec.... how does putting it in your vac lines help? just curious
Old 02-25-2007, 10:19 AM
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Default RE: Seafoaming on a car over 150K

Well im new but here's my two cents. I've looked at the seafoaming diy...... and here my preference (not a commercial). I work at express oil, and i really like our three part fuel system cleaning. All it really consists of is a throttle body cleaning, fuel injector cleaner into a gas tank..... and best of all (imo), and intake cleaner that we hook up through the vacuum line that comes out of the brake booster.

Problems with this: 1:Its hard to say that the intake cleaner moves equally through the intake/back of the valves as many manifolds are designed differently.
2: Fuel injector cleaner should always be added to atleast a half tank (preferably a full tank of fuel.
3: I dont know if there are any drive-by-wire civics. But be careful. If you have drive by wire and open the throttle body by hand.... you could potentially strip out all of the small gears, replacing a new one goes for 300-400 dollars for most cars.

4: i know you can buy the valvoline synpower injector and synpower throttle body cleaner almost anywhere but i dont know if you can get the intake cleaner. (and im sure theres an easy way to hook up the vacuum line without buying the $50 dollar tool.
5: if you cant do it yourself.... the cheapest ive seen it done professionally is 49.95

Things to keep in mind: I've been told that while running the intake cleaner through that the enging must be setup to idle around 2k rpms so that the throttle stays partially opened. We've had cars stall out on it and have sensor problems at restart.
Also, if you're using the 'drip line' for the manifold cleaner, the fastest it should be is a steady drip, never a constant strip. Generally the slower the drip, the longer it takes, the better the cleaning.

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