ive had afew people say that the newer y8 valves should clear the pistons BUT i have no idea if they where correct or wrong... i try not to find out!!!! always use a OEM belt or better like greddy i believe is alittle better timing belt more for turbod motors.
never cheap out on any important engine piece!

 

^i'm about to install a dayco timing belt and tensioner, and it says on my warrantee paper that if I install the timing belt with the timing belt component kit (tensioner), Dayco will warrantee the timing belt to the car manufacturer's recommended replacement mileage for the timing belt (105k miles)
So basically, i'm paying a lot less, replacing my tensioner and timing belt, as you should, and it is guaranteed to last 105k miles.

 

Thats absolutely TRUE.

 

adjusted the valves when I did the timing belt, twice actually..

The specs I used where wrong, thankyou cheap shop manual, and it chattered. So I did some research and went back and adjusted them to the actual clearances and things were smooth.

So I will give that a whack once old boy gets the belt on (im working two jobs now and it would take me a month to get the timing belt on and he can have it done in a week, and I need the car back like asap)

I heard nothing but a click when it stopped running so im hopeful that they cleared and I lucked out.

thanks guys

 

i would say that since you have to get a new belt anyways and have all the covers off just slap the belt on and do a compression check. if she turns out back the heads almost ready to pull off any ways. then take it to a machine shop have them replace which valves are back and go a seat grind, then slap it back on and align the belt properly and you should be good granted the belt doesn't break again

 

car is back from my buddy's. He said the tension was right on (marked it before and after was the same) but the ebay belt I use was crap. It just straight up snapped, lesson learned the hard way.

Car starts and runs fine, purrs like a kitten.

Of course it still has the freaky start up hesitation that has been plaquing me for the last few months, so I know that isnt timing belt related now.

Whenever you start it up- cold or hot- within the first block it just falls on its face. If you push in the clutch and rev it up its smooth. Put a load back on it and it craps out again. Go through that like 3 times and its fine until the next time you start it up.

NO CEL at all, no codes.

Ive tried swapping out all the obvious sensors that could cause it with no luck. I was thinking of taking it to honda to see what they could see on the computer.

 

Check the ignition timing with a timing gun.

 

ya also replace your distributor cap and button.... if its falling on its face right after start up under load it could be really dirty on the spark contacts or theres a tiny bit of moisture stuck in the cap from it having a small crack or leaking seal.... cheap enough to just go ahead and replace them both. very easy to swap out! hardest part is lining up the button to the screw hole opening so you can remove it with a philips screw driver.
when i didnt have a hood on my 96dx i had alittle water get under the distributor seal and it ran fine at first and then after about a mile it started to fall on its face completely and i had to keep the motor reved up over 3-4K rpms to make it keep moving for about 2-3miles until i guess it got hot enough to evaporate the moisture and run like normal. i knew what it was so as soon as i got home i took it off and cleaned it out really good.

 

Timing is dead on.

Already replaced the cap and button twice, no joy.

Also replaced-
Plugs
Wires
Crank Sensor
O2 sensor
no joy

Im driving it now with the TPS unhooked to see if maybe that is the culprit.

 

I'm not exactly sure exactly what you mean by "falls on its face." After start up, is the engine stalling, misfiring, or lacking power?