I took Sacs advice and im glad i did. 6 Bucks a quart, but damn worth it.



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Right now using Valvoline full syn10w30, but am really thinking about switching to mobile 1 full syn 10w30. Would that be perfectly safe?

 

yea well i never used synthetic oil before, but now i use the royal purple. Quite honestly i hear royal purple is the top of the line oil. There are others that are better, but theyre insanely expensive. I was looking into turbonetics oil, and its hard to find and its $$$$

 

Did you have to mail order that stuff? I use Mobil 1 full synthetic and I am fine with it. Honestly though, how would you know if your oil was working better or not?

 

i know that i have only used full synthetic in mine since i did the swap (b18c) and i used to use whatever cheap oil i could find in the d15. when i pulled the d15 apart for a spun bearing, everything was coated with a dull yellow film, but when i recently removed my valvecover and oil pan on the b18, everything looked nearly brand new. it was nice and shiny aluminum, like Forty had been after it with his detailing stuff. that totally converted me, actually seeing how much cleaner it was. that film is from the oil breaking down and mixing with contaminants from the combustion chamber, so looking clean was a definate plus!

 

Castrol 10w30 high mileage engines oil.

 

Honestly, I don't understand why anyone would spend money putting synthetic into a Civic. These motors have been turning hundreds of thousands of miles for decades on dino oil. What does synthetic accomplish that dino doesn't, which justifies that outrageous cost? To each his own, but I think you guys are throwing your money away totally.

Now motorcycles (sportbikes) on the otherhand, yes, it's added protection and wise to have synthetic in a motor that redlines @ 14k.. But a 7k redline civic? bleh

Dino for life, that's all my Civic is getting.

 

well, in the case of Petes car, he has a turbo, which is fed a line of that oil as well, so using dino oil is stupid, as the high temps of the turbo will cook it in no time, and start killing the turbo. but i can see what you are saying in most cases, but if i can spend a little more money on oil, and maybe extend the life of my engine a little, fine with me. and it gets a little more even in cost when you go the oil manufacturers suggested intervals of 7-10k miles between changes. i go 10k kilometers (i have a jdm guage cluster) with a new filter at every 5k, so paying twice as much for the syn isnt much more expensive at all, since i can go 6-7k instead of 3-4k between changes.

 

Maybe its in my head, but i can definey noitice better gas milage (before the turbo lol). Also experienced what sacs did. I removed my valve cover awhile ago and painted it red. Then i switched to royal purple for about 4 oil changes, and the motor looked much much cleaner under that cover.

 

I don't know much about oil myself, but it seems that although motors have been turning on dino oil for decades, the motors now are built differently. One of the differences is how hard the metal is. When I pulled apart my 1940 farmall motor, I was totally amazed at how much thicker and less picky it was. The machined surface on the head was still very noticeable. I didn't have to worry about gouging when I was taking the old gaskets off, couldn't even change the machined surface. My friend who also has one that was frozen and rusted in two cyls, got it going and uses it regularly. I doubt many would do that with a newer motor. I tried , didn't work.
I use Mobil synthetic in my civic, it isn't that much more expensive when you consider the value of the motor.