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  #141  
Old 05-29-2009, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by trustdestruction
i don't remember much of the details, could you recap for me a list of everything you replaced, and which engine you originally thought was in it when you were buying parts.
I thought I had the original engine, d15b7. I had bought some parts that I haven't had the time to play with the car and put them in like the water pump, timing belt and head gasket. Plus I don't want go unbolt stuff without all the tiddy parts to put them back together like washers, etc.
 
  #142  
Old 05-29-2009, 07:25 PM
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Oh, I'm pretty sure the D16Y7 and D15B7 timing belt and water pump are different. head gasket is different material but is the same thickness and will still work fine.
 
  #143  
Old 05-30-2009, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by trustdestruction
Oh, I'm pretty sure the D16Y7 and D15B7 timing belt and water pump are different. head gasket is different material but is the same thickness and will still work fine.
I am going to return them today or tomorrow for new parts. Hopefully I remember to save the receipt.
 
  #144  
Old 06-01-2009, 07:33 AM
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I exchanged all the parts. Apparently if I tell the autozone that I have a 95 civic dx they couldn't find the parts for the d16y7 engine. They had to look for a 96 civic dx parts. Now all these parts should be fine right? water pump, timing belt, head gasket, wires, spark plugs. I also bought six quarts of oil and filter to do an oil change, the oil in the engine is super black.
 
  #145  
Old 06-01-2009, 11:19 AM
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Only need 3.5 quarts of oil.

They couldn't find D16Y7 parts because no 1995 Civic came with one.
 
  #146  
Old 06-01-2009, 12:20 PM
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Now I just need a diy timing belt and water pump tutorial. I am looking at it and it don't look easy. I think I have all the tools. I bought a 1/2" adjustable torque wrench. I have ratchet tool kit and screw drivers, etc.
 
  #147  
Old 06-01-2009, 12:44 PM
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It's easy, just tedious. The only difficult part is getting the crank pulley bolt off.
 
  #148  
Old 06-01-2009, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by trustdestruction
It's easy, just tedious. The only difficult part is getting the crank pulley bolt off.
I need jack stands for the car. Everywhere I read says that I need them. I bought a floor jack and I have a scissor jack which is on the car right now. So I am going to get the stands.
 
  #149  
Old 06-01-2009, 06:18 PM
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ok, got a pair of jack stands. that should be enough since I'll just be working on the front of the car. Two should be enough to keep me from getting smooched under there. On another note, I just realized that none of the sockets that I have fit the 1/2" torque wrench that I just purchased. Darn it! I have to get some sort of converter socket now.

Edit: Btw, here is the howto that I got from this web site to do the timing belt. I figured I'd posted here for reference later;

1.
Step 1

Remove the wheel on the front driver's side of the car. Remove the black plastic protective shield under the car on that side. Set the car on jack stands, one on each side of the car under the frame.
2.
Step 2

Remove the spark plug cover and spark plugs. Use the extension on the ratchet to reach them. Mark the plugs and terminals before removing the plugs from the distributor cap. When replacing the plugs, if they are in the wrong order, the car will not fire correctly, or possibly not at all. Remove the valve cover after removing the plug wires.
3.
Step 3

Loosen and remove the drive belts from the power steering pump and alternator. Start with the power steering pump belt. Loosen the pivot bolt and then the pinch bolt, which is beneath the pivot bolt. Swing the pump out until the belt can be removed. Do the same steps with the alternator until the belt is removed.
4.
Step 4

Place a jack directly underneath the engine on the driver's side. Put a block of wood on top of the jack and then slowly raise it up until it is resting on the oil pan and holding the weight of the engine. Now remove the engine mount on that side. Now you can reach and remove the upper timing belt cover.
5.
Step 5

Turn the crank until the distributor rotor is aiming right at the number one that you marked on the distributor cap. This means that the first piston has reached Top Dead Center (TDC) and is aligned correctly to install the new timing belt.
6.
Step 6

Remove the starter and place a screw driver in between the flywheel and the bell housing so that the crank doesn't move. Use a ratchet and socket to unscrew the crank bolt. You can also now remove the crank pulley and Woodruff key. This is very small and should be placed out of the way in a safe container.
7.
Step 7

Remove the lower timing belt cover, loosen the timing belt tensioner and remove the timing belt.
8.
Step 8

Install the new timing belt, keeping the "up" mark on the camshaft sprocket at the top. The timing mark on the crank sprocket should remain pointed at the arrow on the oil pump.
9.
Step 9

Reverse the steps until everything is replaced exactly how it was. Remove the jack stands and lower the car. Start the car to make sure the engine sounds correct.
Source; <a href="http://www.ehow.com/how_4896631_change-timing-belt-honda-civic.html">How to change timing belt on a honda civic</a>
 

Last edited by FRZ; 06-01-2009 at 06:33 PM.
  #150  
Old 06-02-2009, 02:34 PM
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This is gonna be a long haul. I am on step three so far. Step 4 is a dooser. My floor jack is only 5 1/2" high and can't even reach the oil pan with the car on the jack stands.
 


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