1996 Honda Civic Cx Hatch Help with fuel pump relay
Help please!! I recently purchased a Honda Civic ek hatchback. And me being me I thought about adding a kill switch. Which I did. And it worked great for a week. But then a few days ago when I went to go turn on the car. It was in the off position and it cranked. But then I turned it to the on position after realizing it was off. Now it shows no sign of any power. The actual main fuel pump relay is fine. But the driver side relay is not. The white/black wire that is suppose to always be hot is no longer help. What do I do? Please help
yes it’s hooked up with just the fuel pump relay and I turned it to the on position no lights no nothing
ok let me rephrase
when you initially were trying to start the car and realized you had your kill switch off. at that moment did you flip your killswitch with the car off, car on, or while you were actually trying to start the car. you could have blown other fuses or shorted the ecu by turning something on that was already supposed to be separately other than its intended method of being turned on. in a vehicle the chassis is considered the neutral and then you have power. turning something on thats supposed to come on at the same time as everything is fine. turning it on after the fact is different. also what side of the relay you put your kill switch can also play a factor. the relay engagement wite comes from your ecu. the other wires are just a fused wire power to the pump. if your killswitch is cutting power to the relay you could technically backfeed your ecu. you should have the kill switch on the pump wires as those are separated from the main harness.
when you initially were trying to start the car and realized you had your kill switch off. at that moment did you flip your killswitch with the car off, car on, or while you were actually trying to start the car. you could have blown other fuses or shorted the ecu by turning something on that was already supposed to be separately other than its intended method of being turned on. in a vehicle the chassis is considered the neutral and then you have power. turning something on thats supposed to come on at the same time as everything is fine. turning it on after the fact is different. also what side of the relay you put your kill switch can also play a factor. the relay engagement wite comes from your ecu. the other wires are just a fused wire power to the pump. if your killswitch is cutting power to the relay you could technically backfeed your ecu. you should have the kill switch on the pump wires as those are separated from the main harness.
ok let me rephrase
when you initially were trying to start the car and realized you had your kill switch off. at that moment did you flip your killswitch with the car off, car on, or while you were actually trying to start the car. you could have blown other fuses or shorted the ecu by turning something on that was already supposed to be separately other than its intended method of being turned on. in a vehicle the chassis is considered the neutral and then you have power. turning something on thats supposed to come on at the same time as everything is fine. turning it on after the fact is different. also what side of the relay you put your kill switch can also play a factor. the relay engagement wite comes from your ecu. the other wires are just a fused wire power to the pump. if your killswitch is cutting power to the relay you could technically backfeed your ecu. you should have the kill switch on the pump wires as those are separated from the main harness.
when you initially were trying to start the car and realized you had your kill switch off. at that moment did you flip your killswitch with the car off, car on, or while you were actually trying to start the car. you could have blown other fuses or shorted the ecu by turning something on that was already supposed to be separately other than its intended method of being turned on. in a vehicle the chassis is considered the neutral and then you have power. turning something on thats supposed to come on at the same time as everything is fine. turning it on after the fact is different. also what side of the relay you put your kill switch can also play a factor. the relay engagement wite comes from your ecu. the other wires are just a fused wire power to the pump. if your killswitch is cutting power to the relay you could technically backfeed your ecu. you should have the kill switch on the pump wires as those are separated from the main harness.
kill switch location doesn't matter just how its wired. there's one circuit that comes from the ecu to the relay then to neutral. a separate circuit that goes through the actual switch side of the relay to power the fuel pump. when the key is switched on the ecu is powered up fully then sends a signal to the fuel pump relay to close the circuit. once the circuit is closed power goes through the other side of the relay which is now a completed circuit and feeds the fuel pump. if you put the kill switch in line with the relay instead of inline with the fuel pump you could have sent a surge through the system. when the key is on the ecu is constantly telling the fuel pump relay to switch on. if you put a switch in there the ecu is still telling the relay to come on and both sides of the circuit are trying to do what they are supposed to do. if you separate that and suddenly switch it back on it has a potential to surge the circuit. also depending on the style and quality of the kill switch your using thier is also the potential for a momentary resistance spike that isnt supposed to be there and could cause problems. check all your fuses engine bay and the interior fuses. make sure something else didn't blow.
kill switch location doesn't matter just how its wired. there's one circuit that comes from the ecu to the relay then to neutral. a separate circuit that goes through the actual switch side of the relay to power the fuel pump. when the key is switched on the ecu is powered up fully then sends a signal to the fuel pump relay to close the circuit. once the circuit is closed power goes through the other side of the relay which is now a completed circuit and feeds the fuel pump. if you put the kill switch in line with the relay instead of inline with the fuel pump you could have sent a surge through the system. when the key is on the ecu is constantly telling the fuel pump relay to switch on. if you put a switch in there the ecu is still telling the relay to come on and both sides of the circuit are trying to do what they are supposed to do. if you separate that and suddenly switch it back on it has a potential to surge the circuit. also depending on the style and quality of the kill switch your using thier is also the potential for a momentary resistance spike that isnt supposed to be there and could cause problems. check all your fuses engine bay and the interior fuses. make sure something else didn't blow.
if all fuses are good and your vehicle still shows no signs of life no chimes and no dash lights or anything and your battery is good your ecu is probably fried. unless im overassuming your comment of no signs of power. the way your wording it im taking it your car is acting like you removed the battery completely aside from maybe entry lights. almost everything goes through the ecu in some fashion aside from the bare basics. your only other options are to start chasing wires and hope you have a broken or burned off wire. im also assuming you are sure the switch is still working correctly and you are sure you only seperated the fuel relay with it. i cant really go much further without being there myself and then id just be chasing wires myself anyway. i dont have any prints for you but you can find what you need on google. best you can do is find the ecu power and make sure it has power going to it. if it has power going to it see if anything its supposed to be powering is coming back out.
if all fuses are good and your vehicle still shows no signs of life no chimes and no dash lights or anything and your battery is good your ecu is probably fried. unless im overassuming your comment of no signs of power. the way your wording it im taking it your car is acting like you removed the battery completely aside from maybe entry lights. almost everything goes through the ecu in some fashion aside from the bare basics. your only other options are to start chasing wires and hope you have a broken or burned off wire. im also assuming you are sure the switch is still working correctly and you are sure you only seperated the fuel relay with it. i cant really go much further without being there myself and then id just be chasing wires myself anyway. i dont have any prints for you but you can find what you need on google. best you can do is find the ecu power and make sure it has power going to it. if it has power going to it see if anything its supposed to be powering is coming back out.
yeah it’s just like you said. No signs of life and just feels like you took off the battery. But headlights work cluster lights work and interior light works. Just no power going too the fuel pump relay on the driver side. The main relay on the passenger side. The one with the block. It works just fine. But what do you think? Should I get my ecu checked out?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rickyxiong
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
0
Sep 16, 2020 02:18 AM
1991civic2012
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
1
Jan 21, 2013 04:51 PM
mentaldis0rder
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
9
Jun 15, 2006 05:27 AM



