Car Problem.. I need some help here im all out of ideas
#12
If the car runs at all sometimes, the pump is likely fine. Here's a fun thing to try. If you've got someone who can help, have them sit in the passenger seat while you look under the lower dash on the drivers side. Look for the main relay, which is a small grey box that usually looks like this:
It will be on the far left side just under the lower dash panel. While your passenger tries to start the car, start tapping the relay with your hand or a screwdriver. If the car suddenly starts, bam. There's your problem. Relay.
Look at the insides of the relay...
This is one I repaired awhile ago. If any one of those contacts had a dry socket, the car wouldn't start. That one had 4 dry sockets.
It will be on the far left side just under the lower dash panel. While your passenger tries to start the car, start tapping the relay with your hand or a screwdriver. If the car suddenly starts, bam. There's your problem. Relay.
Look at the insides of the relay...
This is one I repaired awhile ago. If any one of those contacts had a dry socket, the car wouldn't start. That one had 4 dry sockets.
Last edited by WellFedHobo; 02-25-2009 at 11:53 PM.
#13
okay so i just tested the relay and thats not the problem. im still on the fuel pump/filter theory... only thing left that i can think of.. besides frayed or malfunctioning wires... i dont know though, im approaching the end of my rope here. ill keep you posted
#14
Don't guess about the main relay, resolder it.
Check if you have voltage reaching the fuel pump. Take the bottom cushion of the back seat out of the car and you can reach the fuel pump wires. If you have voltage but the pump doesn't run, the pump is bad.
Check if you have voltage reaching the fuel pump. Take the bottom cushion of the back seat out of the car and you can reach the fuel pump wires. If you have voltage but the pump doesn't run, the pump is bad.
#15
how much of the exhaust system did u replace? did u replace that catalitic converter? i problem very similar to this in my ford truck. it would drive it would hit running temp and shut off. let it sit till it was cooled down and it would fire right up. i got up under it when day cat was glowing red. put my hand at the back while it was running and barely any exhaust was coming through. fixed that and it fixed the problem
#16
i replaced from the cat on, but thats definatly not the issue. today i replaced the distrib cap, fuel filter, and router... ran great and then died on me at an intersection.. tested the relay.. works fine. im all out of ideas here.. my only thing now would be the fuel pump. i need some help here
#18
i've had a similar problem, i think it was water in my fuel system. i put two bottles of isoheet in and some fuel injector cleaner to clean out the system. and go buy gas somewhere else. or have you bought more gas a lot??
if it's not that, then it probably is the fuel pump giving out intermittently like you said.
if it's not that, then it probably is the fuel pump giving out intermittently like you said.
#19
theres spark i checked that already. and when i turn the ignition on you can here the pump turn on. the tow truck driver said its more then likely the fuel pump. im beginning to think so as well, cause when i attempt to get the car started you can hear the poor thing trying to turn over and fire up. spontaniously the car will start but it will die out in a matter of seconds.. very weak acceleration when in gear or weak rev when in neutral. i mean i have ran the tank quite low on several occasions prior to the series of mishaps lately. also in the past couple of weeks i have filled up more but i just thought its cause oh how far i was going to work and extra activities (none of that was that far though). i dont know guys, maybe you can tell me if its fuel pump or not. im thinking of grabbing some injector cleaner tommorow but im not sure what isosheet is
#20
If you have bright spark and fuel pump primes, then check whether the timing belt slipped a tooth or two. If so, the camshaft gear and crankshaft pulley will no longer be synchronized at TDC for piston #1. This test requires removal of the valve cover and upper timing belt cover.