how much horsepower??
#1
03-22-2009, 06:28 PM
how much horsepower??
kk so how much horsepower can you get off a honda civic with new intake, a supercharger, exast, tuned sport supension, and a new fuel injector?? i just want like a aproximation. or just tell me how much hp your car has.. i want to get a feel for how much hp i can put into one of these babys
#2
03-22-2009, 06:33 PM
UNLIMITED POWAHHH!!!
seriously, what year and model do you have? That plays a huge role in how much power you can make. Also, I'd recommend a turbocharger over a supercharger for an I4 engine; 4cyl's don't have the torque to really benefit from a blower, but they love turbos
#4
03-22-2009, 07:10 PM
I believe the EP3 was only made 02-05 
Anyway, if that's the car you get, the k20a3 it comes with puts out 160hp at the crank, which would translate to about ~135whp. Personally, if I had a k20a3, I'd do a k20a2 head swap to get a better flowing head as well as true vtec (as opposed to the i-vtec on the a3).
Also, here's a bit of advice. Don't touch the fuel system unless you need to (nitrous/turbo/supercharger), and don't bother touching the ignition; with bolt-ons, your car will be able to supply enough fuel, and stock ignition systems are very over-powered; I wouldn't touch the ignition system until I hit 5-600hp, other than changing out for colder plugs if I went forced induction.
Anyway, with I/H/E and a Hondata K-Pro pcm, I'd say you'd be sitting in the 150whp range. With a turbo, you could easily get 200whp without pushing too much boost. However, turbo's aren't something to be taken lightly; it's very easy to turn your engine into a chunk of scrap metal if you aren't careful or buy cheap parts. Also, I know how 16yo's drive... it hasn't been that long since I was 16; I'd recommend staying away from power adders like turbos for a few years, but usually that kind of advice falls on deaf ears.
Anyway, if that's the car you get, the k20a3 it comes with puts out 160hp at the crank, which would translate to about ~135whp. Personally, if I had a k20a3, I'd do a k20a2 head swap to get a better flowing head as well as true vtec (as opposed to the i-vtec on the a3).
Also, here's a bit of advice. Don't touch the fuel system unless you need to (nitrous/turbo/supercharger), and don't bother touching the ignition; with bolt-ons, your car will be able to supply enough fuel, and stock ignition systems are very over-powered; I wouldn't touch the ignition system until I hit 5-600hp, other than changing out for colder plugs if I went forced induction.
Anyway, with I/H/E and a Hondata K-Pro pcm, I'd say you'd be sitting in the 150whp range. With a turbo, you could easily get 200whp without pushing too much boost. However, turbo's aren't something to be taken lightly; it's very easy to turn your engine into a chunk of scrap metal if you aren't careful or buy cheap parts. Also, I know how 16yo's drive... it hasn't been that long since I was 16; I'd recommend staying away from power adders like turbos for a few years, but usually that kind of advice falls on deaf ears.
#5
03-22-2009, 07:38 PM
haha mybad haha ... alright kool thank you so much for the info... that info hasnt fallen on deaf ears kuz i have to pay for all the upgrades and i dont want to skrew up my only car haha 
haha you saved me from spending a lot of money haha thank you
haha you saved me from spending a lot of money haha thank you
#6
03-22-2009, 07:53 PM
haha, no problem. It's better learning on a less powerful car, anyway. It takes no skill to get a fast, good-handling car to go fast and turn well. To make a slower car go fast and go around turns at speed, you actually have to learn to drive.
And to be honest, I'm kind of glad you have to pay for your own parts; you'll definitely appreciate everything a lot more. I know I do.
And to be honest, I'm kind of glad you have to pay for your own parts; you'll definitely appreciate everything a lot more. I know I do.
#7
03-22-2009, 07:59 PM
ya i no wut you mean i have friends with evos and stuff (they cant realy drive eather haha they just have money) and ive got a prity narly canyon road near my house (its skechy kuz like 10 people have died down there 
) right now im driving my moms toyota sennia (big van ) thro the canyon to get the feel of it and stuff. and as buying my own parts im not to thrilled kuz im jobless right now and broke but i no ill be more thank ful and take better care for them if i buy it
) right now im driving my moms toyota sennia (big van ) thro the canyon to get the feel of it and stuff. and as buying my own parts im not to thrilled kuz im jobless right now and broke but i no ill be more thank ful and take better care for them if i buy it
#8
03-23-2009, 02:13 PM
I believe the EP3 was only made 02-05
Anyway, if that's the car you get, the k20a3 it comes with puts out 160hp at the crank, which would translate to about ~135whp. Personally, if I had a k20a3, I'd do a k20a2 head swap to get a better flowing head as well as true vtec (as opposed to the i-vtec on the a3).
Also, here's a bit of advice. Don't touch the fuel system unless you need to (nitrous/turbo/supercharger), and don't bother touching the ignition; with bolt-ons, your car will be able to supply enough fuel, and stock ignition systems are very over-powered; I wouldn't touch the ignition system until I hit 5-600hp, other than changing out for colder plugs if I went forced induction.
Anyway, with I/H/E and a Hondata K-Pro pcm, I'd say you'd be sitting in the 150whp range. With a turbo, you could easily get 200whp without pushing too much boost. However, turbo's aren't something to be taken lightly; it's very easy to turn your engine into a chunk of scrap metal if you aren't careful or buy cheap parts. Also, I know how 16yo's drive... it hasn't been that long since I was 16; I'd recommend staying away from power adders like turbos for a few years, but usually that kind of advice falls on deaf ears.
Anyway, if that's the car you get, the k20a3 it comes with puts out 160hp at the crank, which would translate to about ~135whp. Personally, if I had a k20a3, I'd do a k20a2 head swap to get a better flowing head as well as true vtec (as opposed to the i-vtec on the a3).
Also, here's a bit of advice. Don't touch the fuel system unless you need to (nitrous/turbo/supercharger), and don't bother touching the ignition; with bolt-ons, your car will be able to supply enough fuel, and stock ignition systems are very over-powered; I wouldn't touch the ignition system until I hit 5-600hp, other than changing out for colder plugs if I went forced induction.
Anyway, with I/H/E and a Hondata K-Pro pcm, I'd say you'd be sitting in the 150whp range. With a turbo, you could easily get 200whp without pushing too much boost. However, turbo's aren't something to be taken lightly; it's very easy to turn your engine into a chunk of scrap metal if you aren't careful or buy cheap parts. Also, I know how 16yo's drive... it hasn't been that long since I was 16; I'd recommend staying away from power adders like turbos for a few years, but usually that kind of advice falls on deaf ears.
#9
06-18-2009, 03:19 PM
Suspension doesn't add power.
Fuel injectors are implied when you do forced induction. Fuel injector size doesn't give you power by itself... changing the fuel injector size is so that you have enough fuel to support your other mods like turbo or supercharger so that you don't run lean. That being said, you don't just buy the biggest injectors you can buy, you buy the ones that match the HP goal you expect to reach from your other mods.
Fuel injectors are implied when you do forced induction. Fuel injector size doesn't give you power by itself... changing the fuel injector size is so that you have enough fuel to support your other mods like turbo or supercharger so that you don't run lean. That being said, you don't just buy the biggest injectors you can buy, you buy the ones that match the HP goal you expect to reach from your other mods.
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badboy4life
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08-31-2007 12:26 PM
02, 2000, 2003, civic, ep3, honda, horsepower, hp, ihe, kpro, lot, make, si, supercharged, supercharger
