by the way do u happen to know what the small metal tab on the side of the switch unit is for? please look at the picture...

 

I am confused. Did you do the continuity tests on the terminals in the black connector of the removed switch? All tests were fine so you are concluding the switch is bad?

 

oh shoot! i'm an idiot haha...i tested only on the harness connector...so what you saying is i have to test between the switch unit and the harness connector...i will go test it now and let u know in a bit...

 

Do the tests on the 7P black switch connector with the switch clicked into the positions indicated in the top table.

 

hey ronj,

yeah i tried everything...connect the multimeter to the switch unit and the harness connector, flip to the dim position test using the diagram: no continuity; flip to high beam position test using the diagram: no continuity.

i think i'm gonna have to buy a new light switch...i think it's dead!

 

The multimeter requires charged batteries to measure resistance. With the multimeter switched to measure Ohms (resistance), does the Ohm reading jump significantly (0 resistance/Ohms) when you touch the two probes of the multimeter together? If so, then the multimeter is working and the switch is bad.

 

See if you can Flash High Beams.
If the Switch is OK to close the Momentary and let the High Beams ON ...
This would indicate that there is a problem with the Headlights ON Switch closing or the Relay protecting that part of the Switch is bad.

 

I think you mean Fuse rather than Relay. The OP mentioned that he checked the fuses.

 

The multimeter works...it'll beeps continuosly when the negative and positive probes touch but when I tried to connect the harness connector with the switch unit it doesn't make any beeping sounds and yes the battery is fully charged (i'm still driving the car)...