hey hcf members, after years of meandering around on this forum drooling over many of your other cars, i've finally decided to put a turbo in my little hatch (96 civic dx hatch, d16y7 engine). my goal is to max out my stock block, or more specifically, max out what my puny connecting rods can take which is around 230 whp, which is what i'm shootin for.

so this is my project so far:

Turbo kit from tunerzimage:
KIT-TKHONDT04E HONDA D SERIES TURBO KIT T04E TURBO $550.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 BC-T1-BL MANUAL TURBO BOOST CONTROLLER KIT $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 BOV-SSQV-C BLOW OFF VALVE HKS STYLE SSQV CHROME $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 DP-B16-B18 HONDA CIVIC / INTEGRA B16 / B18 DOWN PIPE STAINLESS STEEL $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 FMIC-400 UNIVERSAL FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER 27"x5.5"x2.5" $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 FMICPP-UNI-25INCH UNIVERSAL 2.5 INCH CHROME INTERCOOLER PIPING $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 FP-H275 ALUMINIUM INTERCOOLER FLANGE PIPE FOR HKS BLOW OFF VALVE 2.75" $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 OL-01 UNIVERSAL TURBO OIL FEED LINE $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 TBC-T04E-63 T3/T4 T04E 0.63 A/R STATGE 3 TURBOCHARGER $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 TMC-D D SERIES CAST IRON TURBO MANIFOLD $0.00
Ordered: 1 Shipped: 0 WG-38MM TURBO WASETGATE KIT 38MM $0.00

so i bought this whole kit for 640 shipped, i know that it is an ebay kit but after following its reviews from others on honda-tech, i've finally decided to buy it. and if you do a research now on knockoff parts, most are standing up really well. negative reviews on honda-tech for this kit is that the downpipe is at a weird angle and must be modified, but tunerzimage already is straight up to inform you that. virtually no nuts and bolts come with the kit so i'll have to go to ace hardware or home depot to buy whatever i need. there's probably some more but i can't think of any right now.

anywayz, i'll be needing to buy a couple more parts to complete the kit, which i already have. And to rest many of your hearts, i assure you that i am NOT skimping on the tune, i'm going to the certified Neptune tuner of colorado, Jeremy, at servion tuning/revolutions performance to get my car tuned. i chose neptune over hondata simply cuz it's cheaper, full tune with neptune system will be $600, and not crome because there is no crome tuner here in colorado.

pros about this kit is that, obviously, it is extremely cheap for the budget builder. great for my first turbo project as practice and to gain experience. there is many other people on honda-tech who have already tested the kit so i can go for them to get help, even if usually takes them weeks to reply. and it is NOT, i repeat, NOT obx or ssac so i won't run into the manifold problems. (ssac has been getting a lot better too if you do some research on them)

the parts that are missing from this kit that i have purchased are:
precision 650cc injectors $285 + injector clips-he threw in for free, but was $25 (from fast-turbo.com at honda-tech, he works with you to give great deals)
oil return line - $59 + flange - $16 (fast-turbo)
walbro 255lph hp fuel pump - 99 + installation kit - free, but was 25 (fast-turbo)
intake manifold + throttle body from 6th gen civic hx (from friend, forgot price, was lke 25 or something)
p09 ecu - 20 (from friend)

the parts i still need are:
cat back exhaust (trying to buy the 2.25 in budget one for 130 from tunerzimage, they assure that its a direct bolt on
catalytic convertor (i have really no idea where or what to buy for this, HELP PLEASE)
3 bar map sensor (i won't be able to hit my hp goal with 11psi, so i'll be needing this. Fast-turbo offered me their GM 3 bar for $75, it's a decent deal. i just saw that didder on hcf bought a motorola 2.5bar for like $38, should i look into this?? or should i just drop the map sensor and be satisfied with around 200whp with a stock map sensor? but my friend told me i'll still need a map sensor check valve, what's that???)
performance clutch (from what i read it should blow out instantly, any suggestions???)
spark plugs (suggestions??)
o2 bungs (i'll probably get this from fast-turbo)
2 wire iacv connector (i'll need to grab this from a junkyard)

i promise i'll get pictures of everything i have soon!!!






















so guys, help with answers or any comments are appreciated, even if you just wanna bash me for buying a cheap turbo kit, i promise i did a lot of research on it first. but please, HELP ME ANSWER MY QUESTIONS. thankz a bunch guys

p.s. mods can move this to another area

 

Take lots ofpics of your installation, and make a tutorial good luck with your project

 

its showing that it costs $900, how did you get it for 650?

 

mate what are you gonna do bout cams and pistons r u gettin some after market cams nd pistons or are u going with the standard pistons nd cams ?

 

yeah, i have all the parts sitting in my living room so i'll take pictures of each item and post them on. i just need my sister to help me post them on cuz i don't know how to put pictures on the internet *hits myself for being a retard*

tunerzimage sells the same kit on ebay or honda-tech.com for 660, i was able to negotiate to get an additional 20 off so i bought the whole kit shipped for 640. they're a sponsor on honda-tech.com so hit them up if you wanna talk to them, they sell a lot over there.

i'm leaving the whole engine stock. after doing research, i won't need to change the cams or anything in the head unless something is messed up or if my powerband is going past what my head can handle. i got this info from riceburner700. correct me if i'm wrong please

i'm leaving the bottom end stock for now, the weak link in my block is the connecting rods, they're pencil thin so, from what i've researched, they can handle 240 max as they're breaking point so i was shooting for right under that of 230. but to get to 230, i'll probably need 13-15 psi up here in colorado so i'll need a 3 bar (or is 2.5 good) map sensor, so i was also considering just maxing out what my current map sensor can take, but then i'll still need a map sensor check valve, what's that??

answers would be appreciated, thankz guys

 

Good luck with that man, I've been looking around for less expensive but still reliable turbo kits. I'm really interested in some feedback once you get this put together. Seems like a lot of loose ties however, You'll have to get your oil pan tapped or buy one pretapped. Prolly doesn't come with gaskets either since it doesn't include hardware, so your going to have to make your own from gasket sheets or find some that fit right.

I just bought a magnaflow hi-flow catalytic converter, a lot of people like them high grade materials used. You got to be careful tho, on ebay and some other places they just sell a regular converter and say it's a hi-flow. It sells as a bolt on for a d16y8, because the manifold and converter are one whole unit on the y7's.

Centerforce and ACT make good clutch kits.

spark plugs just get one step colder than the kind recommended in your manual, I would use NGK.

 

A check valve is used to trick the MAP sensor into not seeing the boost created, and continue to run normal. Turbocharging the car creates pressure higher than it was normally designed to handle, so it resorts to a failsafe, cut fuel, and in some cases, trip check engine light. hope that helps some. any other questions feel free to let me know. oh, if you don't know, the check valve (or one way valve) is a small mechanical valve, that normally allows air to flow through it in only one direction. Check valves are two-port valves, meaning they have two openings in the body, one for the air to enter and the other for air to leave. i don't have any pics, but im sure you could find some. I believe companies like greddy, and HKS have them for cheap, although i think you might be able to find one non brand name for cheaper. I have a stock d16y7 and ive turbo-charged it myself with a greddy HKS mix. I bought the turbo kit greddy makes for a 95 civic, and after initial use threw the e-manage out, and went with a f-con v-pro computer. Its great, and it adds a lot of the valves, but the major downside is the price. A couple of reccomendations to you, take them or leave them, but from personal experience, i would get a pretapped oil pan. I didn't and mine leaks. I have re-sealed it multiple times, but i was too damn cheap to spring for it, and now im going to have to. Also, I would reccomend at least looking into putting a different head gasket on the head, to help with the pressure. A few dollars worth of ARP head bolts, and a new head gasket could save you $$$ in the longrun.

 

i bought the oil return line kit from fast-turbo so i'll just cut a hole in the oil pan myself. i'm having my friend help me install everything and he has experience with all this so i'll let him decide how to deal with the oil pan. from what i've researched, jb welding it on is usually good enough to keep from leaking. but in the end i'll probably let him decide, he does have a 550 whp integra so i hope he knows what he's doing

so is the check valve part of the engine management system then and not actually a sensor that deals with manifold absolute pressure??

how much would a cheap magnaflow high flow cat cost so i can avoid buying fake ones??

i decided to just daily drive this car until it blows a rod or headgastket. once it does, and if the engine is still salvageable, then i'm going to purchase fjt's superkit with vitara pistons and custom length rods for the vitara pistons along with arp head bolts, or fjt may have his own by then, and turn up the boost more. then if it calls for it, i'll probably go down to riceburner700 and let him do some wonderful headwork on the engine to maximize the power. on the other hand, if it blows and i mess up something that i can't easily swap out on the engine, then i might just move on to a b or k series and start there since i have prior experience with turbos by then.

 

Look for the bolt on magnaflow hi flow cat for a d16y8 (EX).

My plan is kind of similar, boost my current engine on stock internals. Buy another d16y8, slowly build that up. Then once this engine goes or I just feel the times ready, swap it in and tune it for more psi.

 

it is a bypass for the map sensor to trick it into believing you have no abnormal boost. (I think 9-10psi is stock atmospheric pressure) anything over that 9psi and the map sensor doesn't know what to do with it, so it cuts fuel and throws a code, thus tripping your check engine light. in order to prevent that you add this check valve in line with the map sensor, and it never knows the difference.