Kay, I'm now going in another direction. Due to me wanting to buy everything on earth, I've decided to cut some "extras" off the mustang project to make it feasible. Basically, this is because I keep switching between wanting to build the mustang and wanting to buy a civic to build. So here's what I'm going to do to the car:

-Full front suspension (tubular k-member, tubular a-arms, front coilover conversion, camber/caster plates)
-Independent Rear Suspension swap (H&R Race springs)
-New brake calipers (OEM), cross-drilled/slotted rotors (entirely for looks)
-New door
-New fenders (shaved badges)
-New side skirt (Olds. Achieve side skirts modified to mount under mine like described a few pages ago)
-Saleen S281 spoiler
-custom rear diffuser
-Corbeau seats (CR1 and FX1)
-Corbeau harness bar
-Corbeau 5pt harnesses


Pretty much I'm cutting the full engine build out as well as the twin turbos, possible compound boost, etc. Realistically, I'll have probably 75% done by the end of next year. When the dust settles, I'll hopefully have an EG to toy around with. Eventually, I may or may not get the wheels and a cam, but the cam would be almost entirely for the sound and the wheels (well, the tires anyway) are too expensive to do right now.

 

Just curious...how much will all of this cost you? And u should get a eg hatch if u could ;D thatd be hella sweet haha but i kno ur money is tight thus the reaosn i ask how much all that will run u up there in KY.

 

Somewhere between $4k and $5k. The nice thing about being a mechanic is there's very little I can't do and there's very few tools I don't have access to, so I'm saving quite a bit on labor. The suspension alone is going to be close to $3k. The only bad part is I'm going to have to support the engine to replace the K-member since the only two engine mounts rest on the K-member.

Oh, and IMO, EG > EK > EF

 

Yah so if u have the money and wanna start a civic project u should get an eg hatch :P lmao i love those...but mann i wish i could have a mustang to tool around with haha couldve had my moms old 98 convertable from like 3 years ago but she sold it haha wouldnt really want a silver v6 convertable anyway haha

 

Chris these are good plans too stick with right now^^ especially when your not fully sure what you want to do, and it never hurts to have a solid suspension setup. I agree with kenny you should get a civic eg when you can! Your right about being a mechanic, you probally save yourself either alot of labour cost or alot of pains in the *** (my case lol) because you know what your doing. I honestly would buy/import this mustang from you someday if you ever sold it, just because it is that nice, and I know the hard work you've put into it up until now. Also EG>EK/EP/EF lol in my opinion as well and Ive driven the others as well. You gotta know my projects are all done on tight budgets as well, Ive saved all winter to do my turbo setup sooner or later on the nissan, and the honda will cost me alot of overtime at work. Now if I just had your mechanical knowledge, so far Ive done everything myself, but like I said it takes alot of time, tool buying and all to easy mistakes. I dont fear a turbo swap but taking the head off a motor scares me lol. Keep going on the mustang!!

 

Taking the head off isn't so bad... especially on an I4. You don't even have to take the engine out. Just follow the loosening/torquing sequences on the head bolts and you'll be fine.

And I wouldn't recommend buying the mustang... it's been hit hard a few times. If I ever do stroke out the engine I'm going to go through the engine bay and re-weld a lot of stuff to fix the crappy repair job whoever owned it before me had done while the engine is out. Although with the new suspension I won't have anything bent anymore (as it stands, I have -2* of camber up front since that's the closest to factory spec. I could get the alignment with both sides being even).

I'd still like to cam and stroke the engine, but the stroker kit is almost $2k, and there's a lot of precision measuring involved (as in several hours of measuring things), so I'll be having a machine shop do that (I plan on having the block re-honed anyway), so there's going to be labor involved on that one. The cam I wouldn't have a problem with doing (take the intakes off, take the heads off, pull the cam out, install is the reverse of removal). As it sits, I'll probably have my new plans done in the next year, two years max. I'll be making a trip up to Rochester, NY when the body work is done to have my friend paint the car, so that should be a fun little road trip

 

ya its only steel it can be fixed or modified or replaced. trust me ive seen better in the junk yard where you look at them and wonder WHY are they in the junk yard?
i kinda hate CFC but at least i get some nice parts from my junk yard cheap.

 

oh yeah a road trip once the car was almost complete or done would be alot of fun. Any road trip is fun lol. Ill have to find a write up on head removal/installation and read it a few times and should be ok. I did read in your project thread, a ford explorer or something hit your car not too long ago?

 

Haha, more the other way around. That's why I need a new door and fender. The skirt is salvageable with a little sanding and a thin (1/16" or so) layer of filler.

But yeah, when it's done, I might have to make a little road trip up North and pick up a RHD car while I'm there. At least when the body, suspension, and interior are all done

The only thing I'm wondering about is registering a RHD car. I believe it's perfectly legal if it's a car that had a comparable car sold in the USDM of the same year, and I'm pretty sure there were USDM '92-'95 civics

 

Screw it, I'm adding more to the project since I have a slight intake gasket leak and the 3.8L OHV is known for head gasket leaks. I'm going to be adding the cam and a windstar intake swap with 65mm throttle body to the project. The intake manifold is independently dyno tested for 7whp/15ft*lbs of torque on a stock engine, and the cam will add some top-end (I already have the low-end for takeoffs but I'd prefer a little more "pick up" in the higher rpm's), not to mention it'll make the car sound absolutely beastly. Also, if I have it cammed, I'm sure I can get more for it if I sell it to someone who wants a modified mustang and doesn't care about the v6/v8 thing (around here v6's outnumber v8's by about 3:1).


So here's the updated project breakdown:

-Full front suspension (tubular k-member, tubular a-arms, front coilover conversion, camber/caster plates)
-Independent Rear Suspension swap (H&R Race springs)
-New brake calipers (OEM), cross-drilled/slotted rotors (entirely for looks)
-New door
-New fenders (shaved badges)
-New side skirt (Olds. Achieve side skirts modified to mount under mine like described a few pages ago)
-Saleen S281 spoiler
-custom rear diffuser
-Corbeau seats (CR1 and FX1)
-Corbeau harness bar
-Corbeau 5pt harnesses
-VAP Auto Ford Windstar upper intake plenum swap (65mm ported GT throttle body)
-Supersix Motorsports "4.3L strokers/nitrous" cam: 224/230 duration, .55/.55 lift (yeah, it's huge)
-Supersix Motorsports 118 beehive valve springs
-Supersix Motorsports roller rocker arms
-Supersix Motorsports hardened pushrods
-SPEC aluminum flywheel
-SPEC stage 3 (6-puck) clutch
-Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft


After all that's done, I'll need to decide if I'm going to continue or not. If I do move on with it, I'll be stroking it to a 4.2L or a 4.3L with forged internals. After that, I might still look into doing the TT build; it depends on how I feel about it when the dust settles.