There are more details here than I care to touch on, but chrome and stainless steel are not the same thing. What I believe my05civic meant: just cause it's shiny doesn't mean it's chrome.

Chrome outside for show. (still tacky tho IMHO)
Ceramic inside or solid stainless for go.

Or be a hooligan and wrap'em up for showAND go!

 

Performance exhaust headers live under some of the most grueling conditions on your vehicle. They are constantly being seared, scorched and singed by the blistering-hot exhaust fumes chugging out of your cylinders. In order to withstand this punishing environment and to avoid corrosion, performance headers are treated with a number of different coatings. Here's a quick reference to the most common types of finishes:
High Temperature Paint:
One of the most basic performance exhaust header coatings is high temperature paint. It lays down an effective barrier against moisture infiltration that can lead to rust. Plus, it's specially formulated to resist cracking, peeling and flaking. Though not as durable as some of the other coatings, high temperature paint is a cost-effective alternative. It's good for mild street use. Pacesetter specializes in this particular finish.

Nickel-Chrome Plating:
Cars and chrome go together like wrenches and toolboxes—it's just a natural fit. For a dazzling dose of chrome under the hood, the nickel-chrome coating is right up your alley. While chrome adds an eye-catching shine, the nickel works to ward off oxidation. Over time and under heavy-duty loads, the polish will discolor slightly. This coating is recommended for mild street use. Get your chrome exhaust headers from JBA Headers, Doug Thorley Headers or Bassani.

Stainless Steel:
Stainless steel exhaust headers do not have a coating. Instead, their resistance to rust and heat comes from the metal itself. There are two types of stainless steel used in performance headers: 409 and 304. The difference is that 304 has more chromium than 409, so it is stronger and is not as prone to corrosion. Both grades of stainless can bear high temperatures, but each type will lose its luster eventually. Stainless steel performance exhaust headers are ideal for mild and moderate street use, as well as for towing. For stainless steel, check out Dynatech, JBA Headers, DC Sport, Gibson or Borla headers.

Ceramic Coating:
Don't let the name fool you—we're not talking about dainty porcelain vases. For the ultimate in corrosion resistance and thermal protection, ceramic coatings are the way to go. The rugged shell is actually baked onto the performance exhaust headers in a red-hot oven. Once cured, the ceramic coating can hold up against the most brutal heat and block against the most insidious rust. Many manufacturers produce their own unique blends of ceramic coatings with either shiny or matte finishes. This type of coating is ideal for serious street performance, heavy-duty towing, and racing uses. Ceramic coatings are used by most exhaust headers companies, including JBA Headers, Pacesetter, Doug Thorley Headers, DC Sport, Gibson, Bassani and Edelbrock

http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts...A30A171A2.aspx

 

Thanks for making brand recommendations per my post in the other thread!

Does anyone use header wrap on import compacts?

 

If it were aboutfifteen years ago, that question would be better asked 'Does anybody NOT use header wraps on import compatcts?' Before the import scene really took off (Thank you FnF) there really weren't these headers with special coatings and crap...if you wanted to contain the heat you had to use wraps. I know there are a lot of hardcore amatures out there who still use them over a coated header. The only downside is they will hold moisture against your header and it will corrode it faster.

 

^ yeah, but don't they make header wrap sealant? So if you wrap and seal your header, you shouldn't have a problem with corrosion, right?

 

i'm sure they make that stuff, but why bother with it?

 

^^^ Good point.

But if you're determined, you will be locking in moisture unless your wrapping them on a day when there is virtually 0% humidity. The air that you're pulling onto your header has water in it and if you seal it then you will be sealing the air's humidity there.

 

Okay, forget the whole "wrapped headers rust faster thing":

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=69168

EDIT: changed the link... the 1st one was from a search (I couldn't find the thread) and the words "header" and "wrap" were highlighted.. it annoyed me lol