04 Civic. No air coming through vents.
#1
04 Civic. No air coming through vents.
Hello folks, had the shop look at it yesterday and was informed it would be best to take it to the dealer. Said they tried a different blower motor and that wasn't the issue. Basically my problem is no air whatsoever, hot or cold flowing through the vents, as of from friday. Any idea what it might be, rough cost? I have no technical knowledge of cars I might add.
#2
Usually the problem is the power transistor. With everything plugged in, turn key on and switch on high. Then measure voltage from each motor lead to ground.
Zero volts on both: No power from the fuse or relay. Those are both in the fuse box under the hood.
12 volts on one, zero on the other: The motor is getting power. If it doesn't run, bad motor.
12 volts on both: Bad power transistor or (very rarely) the control panel. There is a control panel self-test but I don't remember how to do it. If other functions of the panel work (you hear motors running when you turn the air selector), it's pretty safe to just replace the power transistor.
The power transistor is mounted to the ductwork behind the glove box. Some parts houses still call it a "blower resistor" even though it is actually a transistor in later models.
Zero volts on both: No power from the fuse or relay. Those are both in the fuse box under the hood.
12 volts on one, zero on the other: The motor is getting power. If it doesn't run, bad motor.
12 volts on both: Bad power transistor or (very rarely) the control panel. There is a control panel self-test but I don't remember how to do it. If other functions of the panel work (you hear motors running when you turn the air selector), it's pretty safe to just replace the power transistor.
The power transistor is mounted to the ductwork behind the glove box. Some parts houses still call it a "blower resistor" even though it is actually a transistor in later models.
Last edited by mk378; 02-05-2012 at 06:38 AM.
#3
Thanks mk, any idea of cost of repair/replace?
Usually the problem is the power transistor. With everything plugged in, turn key on and switch on high. Then measure voltage from each motor lead to ground.
Zero volts on both: No power from the fuse or relay. Those are both in the fuse box under the hood.
12 volts on one, zero on the other: The motor is getting power. If it doesn't run, bad motor.
12 volts on both: Bad power transistor or (very rarely) the control panel. There is a control panel self-test but I don't remember how to do it. If other functions of the panel work (you hear motors running when you turn the air selector), it's pretty safe to just replace the power transistor.
The power transistor is mounted to the ductwork behind the glove box. Some parts houses still call it a "blower resistor" even though it is actually a transistor in later models.
Zero volts on both: No power from the fuse or relay. Those are both in the fuse box under the hood.
12 volts on one, zero on the other: The motor is getting power. If it doesn't run, bad motor.
12 volts on both: Bad power transistor or (very rarely) the control panel. There is a control panel self-test but I don't remember how to do it. If other functions of the panel work (you hear motors running when you turn the air selector), it's pretty safe to just replace the power transistor.
The power transistor is mounted to the ductwork behind the glove box. Some parts houses still call it a "blower resistor" even though it is actually a transistor in later models.
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