1989 honda civic dx hatchback wont start
The check engine light coming on then going out and the fuel pump running are a good sign. Those actions are controlled by the ECU so it is not completely dead. You really should check for sparks next. Also open the fuse box next to the battery and check the fuses in there if you haven't already.
Sometimes it is helpful to step back and forget what was done to the car before, because there is a small chance that changing the alternator had nothing to do with the problem now. Pretend like someone just gave you the car and all you know about it is that it won't start. Then check everything from scratch.
Sometimes it is helpful to step back and forget what was done to the car before, because there is a small chance that changing the alternator had nothing to do with the problem now. Pretend like someone just gave you the car and all you know about it is that it won't start. Then check everything from scratch.
allright i guess ill check that. i dunno about the compression test tho i dont have the money to shell out. but i may have to. so as to him saying disconnect the fuel line. theirs the fuel filter, my grandfather said that can be dirty and said to disconnect it and blow into it "hes a old foagie hes used to those cylindral fuel filters with holes on both ends lol. but im smelling fuel when i try and start it so maybe should i still check?
you say you smell fuel... from inside the car???? or from under the bonnet (hood) i dont think you should be able to smell fuel strongly, i meant disconnect a fuel line from near the engine, say off the fuel rail, though it could be the injectors are not working, not quite sure how to check that.....
Loosen the gas cap to release any pressure in the tank. Disconnect the return line which starts at the regulator on the left (driver's) side of the throttle body where it goes to a metal line at the firewall which leads back to the gas tank. Direct the disconnected hose into a container and turn the key on (not necessary to crank). Fuel should come out for a couple of seconds while the pump is running.
lol ill try that. the other guy said take it off and let her squirt lol isnt that sorta dangerous lmao. my uncles gona come check it out this weekend like i said i dont have the tools/resources or brains to do all this. im a ****ing computer geek/repair tech lol. if switchin out a engine was as easy as a processor then thatd be facking dandy lmao! thanks for all your posts and help. and ill let ya kno
I DUNNO SOMETHIN JUST HIT ME. COULD THE ENGINE NOT START BECAUSE ITS FLOODED WITH FUEL. THE DUDE WHO PUT IN MY ALT SAID HOLD DOWN THE GAS AND TRY TO START IT. COULD THAT BE POSSIBLE. AND IF IT IS SHOULD I TAKE THE PLUGS OUT AND LET IT SIT FOR A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF TIME?
i kno bro what im saying is im wondering if we coulda flooded it when we tried to start it the first time, then he plug in the alternator then it wont start. should i pull the plugs for 30 mins?
ok i went outside to go play with it again "mention its bloddy cold." well my friend said to send him a 3g2 video off my phone of it starting and i found a tool 2 convert it so here it is http://youtube.com/watch?v=P-2yfVMPOgE BUT I RIPPED THE DAMN FUEL FILTER OFF AND BLEW IN ONE END "AND YES GOT A BUNCH OF SODDING GAS IN MY FACE, WHATEVER. SO THAT SEEMED COOL. I PUT THE NUTS BACK ON IT NICE AND TITE,. PUT THE BRACKET BACK ON, GOT THE BOTTOM PART IN THE LIP AND REBOLTED IT BACK TO THE FIREWALL. THEN I PULLED THE SPARK PLUGS AND CLEANED EM ****ING DANDY HAVE A PEEK
BUT YEAH ANYONE KNO THE SPARK PLUG GAP? I CLEANED EM AND SCRAPED THE ELECTRODES. I THINK THEIR AT .44 NOT SURE, AND ONCE THEIR GAPPED SHOULD I THROW THE BUGGERS BACK AND IN TRY TO START IT? OR SHOULD I WAIT 30 MINS SO THE ENGINES GAS CAN EVAPORATE
BUT YEAH ANYONE KNO THE SPARK PLUG GAP? I CLEANED EM AND SCRAPED THE ELECTRODES. I THINK THEIR AT .44 NOT SURE, AND ONCE THEIR GAPPED SHOULD I THROW THE BUGGERS BACK AND IN TRY TO START IT? OR SHOULD I WAIT 30 MINS SO THE ENGINES GAS CAN EVAPORATE


