1990 civic si engine issue
#1
10-07-2011, 05:57 PM
1990 civic si engine issue
hi guys so i have a 90 si civic which i own for over a year,
just recently i decide to replace timing belt and water pump.
so i got this mechanic to do the job, so he replace the pump and the belt including all the seals, then he say i should adjust your valves. so he did.
unfortunately for me every since then my car is not the same. it idles really bad almost to the point of stalling also valves are making noise when you give gas on a high gear. car feel slow.
i move the distributor forward to the front of the car and the idle is better but anyways car is not the same it was before.
also i check the timing with a reference that i find on the web and maybe im wrong but timing look ok to me.
also remove valve cover and check valves and found that when all marks where aligned first 4 valves where a bit loose and then on the next cylinder air intake valves where loose and on the third one the muffler valves where a bit loose too. the last cylinder where tight.
now the guy says that everything is ok and that i have another problem.
don't know what to do or what to check.
any idea or what could be happening,
i really appreciate any help you can give me. have a good one
just recently i decide to replace timing belt and water pump.
so i got this mechanic to do the job, so he replace the pump and the belt including all the seals, then he say i should adjust your valves. so he did.
unfortunately for me every since then my car is not the same. it idles really bad almost to the point of stalling also valves are making noise when you give gas on a high gear. car feel slow.
i move the distributor forward to the front of the car and the idle is better but anyways car is not the same it was before.
also i check the timing with a reference that i find on the web and maybe im wrong but timing look ok to me.
also remove valve cover and check valves and found that when all marks where aligned first 4 valves where a bit loose and then on the next cylinder air intake valves where loose and on the third one the muffler valves where a bit loose too. the last cylinder where tight.
now the guy says that everything is ok and that i have another problem.
don't know what to do or what to check.
any idea or what could be happening,
i really appreciate any help you can give me. have a good one
#3
10-08-2011, 05:44 AM
Set the timing with a timing light (remember, the test jumper must be jumpered to set the ECU to base time mode). If the distributor is not near the center of the adjustment range when the sparks are properly timed, the timing belt is on wrong.
Or since you already have the valve cover off, take off the upper timing belt cover, TDC the crank, and check the marks on the cam pulley.
The point of valve adjustment is to have the rocker arms slightly slack (to the specified .010 inch or so clearance) when the cam is not pressing on the rocker. Setting the valve clearance too tight will cause loss of compression and poor idle as well as possibly burnt / damaged valves.
Or since you already have the valve cover off, take off the upper timing belt cover, TDC the crank, and check the marks on the cam pulley.
The point of valve adjustment is to have the rocker arms slightly slack (to the specified .010 inch or so clearance) when the cam is not pressing on the rocker. Setting the valve clearance too tight will cause loss of compression and poor idle as well as possibly burnt / damaged valves.
#4
10-09-2011, 09:44 AM
unfortunately dont have a timing ligth.
also im not sure about touching the valves dont want to mess my head. im handy with cars but im not a mechanic.
the timing marks did aligned when i pull the belt cover and turn the crankshat till the yellow mark was on position. i only turn the engine twice. maybe need to try more turns and see where the marks land?
i just notice that with the valves. if the youtube video was rigth only 4 valves should be loose at the time depending on the position of the crankshaft and that is no the case on my car.
i did move the distributor all away to the front of the car and it started to run better it doesnt want to stall that much.
i apreciatte your help.
also im not sure about touching the valves dont want to mess my head. im handy with cars but im not a mechanic.
the timing marks did aligned when i pull the belt cover and turn the crankshat till the yellow mark was on position. i only turn the engine twice. maybe need to try more turns and see where the marks land?
i just notice that with the valves. if the youtube video was rigth only 4 valves should be loose at the time depending on the position of the crankshaft and that is no the case on my car.
i did move the distributor all away to the front of the car and it started to run better it doesnt want to stall that much.
i apreciatte your help.
#7
10-09-2011, 09:47 AM
Set the timing with a timing light (remember, the test jumper must be jumpered to set the ECU to base time mode). If the distributor is not near the center of the adjustment range when the sparks are properly timed, the timing belt is on wrong.
Or since you already have the valve cover off, take off the upper timing belt cover, TDC the crank, and check the marks on the cam pulley.
The point of valve adjustment is to have the rocker arms slightly slack (to the specified .010 inch or so clearance) when the cam is not pressing on the rocker. Setting the valve clearance too tight will cause loss of compression and poor idle as well as possibly burnt / damaged valves.
Or since you already have the valve cover off, take off the upper timing belt cover, TDC the crank, and check the marks on the cam pulley.
The point of valve adjustment is to have the rocker arms slightly slack (to the specified .010 inch or so clearance) when the cam is not pressing on the rocker. Setting the valve clearance too tight will cause loss of compression and poor idle as well as possibly burnt / damaged valves.
unfortunately dont have a timing ligth.
also im not sure about touching the valves dont want to mess my head. im handy with cars but im not a mechanic.
the timing marks did aligned when i pull the belt cover and turn the crankshat till the yellow mark was on position. i only turn the engine twice. maybe need to try more turns and see where the marks land?
i just notice that with the valves. if the youtube video was rigth only 4 valves should be loose at the time depending on the position of the crankshaft and that is no the case on my car.
i did move the distributor all away to the front of the car and it started to run better it doesnt want to stall that much.
i apreciatte your help.
#8
10-09-2011, 07:48 PM
You can rent a timing light at most main stream auto part stores. There will be a deposit but most don't charge for rental.
Only way to figure out how far out of time it is.
When you move the distributor to the front does it run normal or just run better?
Only way to figure out how far out of time it is.
When you move the distributor to the front does it run normal or just run better?
#9
10-09-2011, 08:43 PM
It only idles better car is not the same since he put the hands on it. Valves also make noise at low speed in high gear when i press the gas yiu can hearthem a lot. It never did that before. It also feels heavy
#10
10-10-2011, 04:07 AM
That actually sounds like knocking / detonation inside the engine, seriously not good, don't drive with it like that. Check the timing marks again. You should remove spark plug #1 and probe in the cylinder to confirm the crank is at TDC. The crank pulley could have been put on without the key and then of course the marks on it will be wrong.