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1998 Honda Civic A/c Not working

  #21  
Old 06-18-2010, 07:55 AM
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Ron
Update: There is NO connectivity between Blu/Wht wire in terminal 1 of the pressure switch connector and Blue/white slot 8 of connector C214. So does this mean I need to change the wire harness? How difficult is this job? Do i have to check the hood fuse box. I did not do since problem seems to be the blu/wht wire being open

Thanks

Thanks
 
  #22  
Old 06-18-2010, 08:00 AM
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You can run your own wire between the pressure switch and C214. Do the second continuity test to ensure that there is not an additional open in the circuit.
 
  #23  
Old 06-18-2010, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RonJ View Post
You can run your own wire between the pressure switch and C214.
Do I have to remove the existing Blu/White for this? How Do I connect the wire to the connectors that already have wire crimped? Appreciate your suggestions on how to run the wire from Pressure switch to the C214 connector. Also can you suggest the Volt/amps rating for the wire? Thanks
 

Last edited by Love_Honda; 06-18-2010 at 08:26 AM.
  #24  
Old 06-18-2010, 08:41 AM
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If the blue and white wire were bad, the condenser fan would start but the compressor would not unless you ground the wire at the switch. Is that what happens?

Wires often fail at the ends, due to not being properly crimped to the connector pins. Use a probe with a sharp point to poke through the insulation of the wire a couple of inches back from the connector and test continuity to the pin. Do this at both ends. If one end is bad, replace or rework the connector (pull a pin with wire attached out of a junk harness)

But if you find the wire itself is bad somewhere in the middle, just cut it loose at both ends (where you were probing) and splice on a new wire to the stub ends still attached to the connectors. This wire does not carry a heavy current, so any wire similar to stock size will be OK.
 

Last edited by mk378; 06-18-2010 at 08:49 AM.
  #25  
Old 06-18-2010, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by mk378 View Post
If the blue and white wire were bad, the condenser fan would start but the compressor would not unless you ground the wire at the switch. Is that what happens?
Yes; When I ground the other wire (not Blue/White), the compressor starts. condenser fan runs with out any issues. Also when I short both the connectors of the Pressure switch connector, the compressor does not start.

I will shave off some wire near the connectors and run a wire and see if it works
 

Last edited by Love_Honda; 06-18-2010 at 09:23 AM.
  #26  
Old 06-18-2010, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Love_Honda View Post
Do I have to remove the existing Blu/White for this? How Do I connect the wire to the connectors that already have wire crimped? Appreciate your suggestions on how to run the wire from Pressure switch to the C214 connector. Also can you suggest the Volt/amps rating for the wire? Thanks
Originally Posted by mk378 View Post
If the blue and white wire were bad, the condenser fan would start but the compressor would not unless you ground the wire at the switch. Is that what happens?

Wires often fail at the ends, due to not being properly crimped to the connector pins. Use a probe with a sharp point to poke through the insulation of the wire a couple of inches back from the connector and test continuity to the pin. Do this at both ends. If one end is bad, replace or rework the connector (pull a pin with wire attached out of a junk harness)

But if you find the wire itself is bad somewhere in the middle, just cut it loose at both ends (where you were probing) and splice on a new wire to the stub ends still attached to the connectors. This wire does not carry a heavy current, so any wire similar to stock size will be OK.
Originally Posted by Love_Honda View Post
Yes; When I ground the other wire (not Blue/White), the compressor starts. condenser fan runs with out any issues. Also when I short both the connectors of the Pressure switch connector, the compressor does not start.

I will shave off some wire near the connectors and run a wire and see if it works
Mk, the OP has pinpointed an open in the wire highlighted in red. The second continuity test was to verify that the wire highlighted green does not also have an open. An open in either highlighted section of wire would prevent the compressor from engaging yet allow the condenser fan to run.

OP, you can disconnect the entire section of the red highlighted wire as it only exists for the compressor circuit. Just cut the wire at both ends and run a new one by any convenient and safe route.


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  #27  
Old 06-18-2010, 09:59 AM
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If it's a connector problem, splicing in a new wire to the stubs of wire on the old connectors won't help. The OP really should probe the wire first.
 
  #28  
Old 06-18-2010, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mk378 View Post
If it's a connector problem, splicing in a new wire to the stubs of wire on the old connectors won't help. The OP really should probe the wire first.
Gotcha. Excellent point and an easy continuity test to do.
 
  #29  
Old 06-18-2010, 11:14 AM
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See picture attached. Thank you Both; The problem is solved; I ran a separate wire (see white color wire in the picture) from the Pressure switch to the C214 connector. I sliced wires 1" below the connectors and attached the new wire and taped it. Routed the wire along the firewall. The A/C runs perfectly. So the problem is that the blue/white wire is damaged some where in the middle
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  #30  
Old 06-18-2010, 11:25 AM
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I have one more question; The radiator fan is not coming when the engine is heated up. The fan works fine when I short the cooling fan relay. I think by mistake I interchanged the cooling fan relay and the clutch relay once when working. The engine was in II position at that time. But quickly realized the mistake and changed it back. Wondering if this has affected the cooling fan relay. Your thoughts are appreciated
 

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