Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat If you've got a problem you just can't figure out, a noise you can't diagnose, or a check engine light that won't go away, ask about it here!

1998 Honda Civic A/c Not working

  #31  
Old 06-18-2010, 11:49 AM
RonJ's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 9,453
Default

Congatulations on the gratifying fix.

In ON(II), does the radiator fan run when you jump/short the unplugged 2P connector for the fan switch located on the thermostat housing? Any overheating problem?
 
  #32  
Old 06-18-2010, 01:07 PM
HCF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 29
Default

Grateful to you Ron; Without your help, I not could have done this.

In ON(II), Yes, the radiator fan runs when I jump/short the unplugged 2P connector for the fan switch. Fuse is Ok in the hood. No overheating problem; The needle stays below the half mark.
 
  #33  
Old 06-18-2010, 01:11 PM
RonJ's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 9,453
Default

Originally Posted by Love_Honda View Post
In ON(II), Yes, the radiator fan runs when I jump/short the unplugged 2P connector for the fan switch. Fuse is Ok in the hood. No overheating problem; The needle stays below the half mark.
I would do nothing unless you see the dash temp gauge rise above normal. Civic engines tend to run cool so the fan only runs occasionally under normal circumstances.
 
  #34  
Old 06-18-2010, 03:19 PM
HCF Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Steinbach, MB
Posts: 578
Default

RonJ - just want to jump in here with a word from my recent experience.

I was experiencing some symptoms of overheating (hesitation/bogging, steam from the radiator, etc) but the dash gauge never went above normal (just under half). Rad fan would NOT come on for anything (short of jumping the ETC). However once I properly bled the cooling system all was well. If it is properly bled I would suspect that the ETC switch has failed.

Double check that you've properly bled the cooling system (ROnJ, please post the instructions from your manual).
 
  #35  
Old 06-18-2010, 04:22 PM
RonJ's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 9,453
Default

Originally Posted by SilverSedan View Post
(ROnJ, please post the instructions from your manual).
Here you go:

Bleeding the cooling system:

(This procedure may take 20-30 minutes)

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below


Name:  picture_3542.jpg
Views: 480
Size:  43.0 KB
 
  #36  
Old 05-06-2013, 11:52 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 2
Default

I had the exact same problem and got the ac fixed thanks to this thread. Thank you kind sirs!
 
  #37  
Old 07-19-2013, 11:34 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1
Default Question about pressure switch?

If one is jumpering the 2 pins on the pressure switch and the compressor clutch comes on, does this mean the pressure switch is bad? Also, if one is grounding the red/blu pin on the pressure switch and compressor clutch comes on, does this also indicate bad pressure switch... Thks in advance
 
  #38  
Old 07-19-2013, 01:49 PM
Recognized HCF Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
Default

Unplug switch and measure ohms between the pins on the switch, it should be a closed circuit. If it is open, check the pressure with gauges. Pressure on the high and low sides will be the same with the compressor not running. You should have the saturation pressure for your ambient temperature, about 100 psi in the summer time. If < 50 psi there is practically no refrigerant, and the switch opens to protect the compressor. Jumping the switch without knowing the pressure is a bad idea.

If switch is closed but the voltage at the switch wires stays above ground and does not change when you press the A/C button, something is wrong with the control panel. Or the evaporator thermistor is bad and convincing the control panel the evaporator is cold when it is not.
 
  #39  
Old 07-20-2013, 07:03 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 2
Default

Originally Posted by Love_Honda View Post
See picture attached. Thank you Both; The problem is solved; I ran a separate wire (see white color wire in the picture) from the Pressure switch to the C214 connector. I sliced wires 1" below the connectors and attached the new wire and taped it. Routed the wire along the firewall. The A/C runs perfectly. So the problem is that the blue/white wire is damaged some where in the middle
This is what fixed my problem. Although I knew there was sufficient pressure/freon in the system due to a recharge and service the year prior, I assumed there were no leaks and I took the gamble by not using gauges.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
n452mk
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
5
10-13-2012 10:09 PM
Reades98
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
1
08-09-2011 05:11 PM
Juans_MX3
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
3
04-07-2010 03:38 PM
gunaa
General Civic Talk
1
10-22-2009 11:36 AM
chrisroug
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
2
10-02-2006 11:36 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 1998 Honda Civic A/c Not working


Advertising
Featured Sponsors

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.