2000 Civic VP (automatic), weird idle when a/c on
I've done lots of searching reading various threads on this but it has been unclear if anyone has described the exact issue I'm experiencing. I am not a car person, btw, but I can at least look for things if anyone has any suggestions. I'll try to describe the issue as specifically as I can.
The problem is the idle sounds rough every 10 seconds or so with the a/c turned on. When you first start up the car, even after a minute, it's a little rough but not too bad. It may get progressively worse just sitting there, not sure. But after I start driving for a bit and then come to a stop, the idling roughness become obvious. When it occurs, the RPM's dip and then almost pulse like a wave for a few seconds before going back to normal. 10 seconds later it repeats. When I say "pulse", I don't meant drastically. It's still at a low sputtering RPM. There are some loud a/c exhalation type sounds when this happens. I think it's also happening while driving with the a/c on because sometimes I'll hit the gas and it might be sluggish a bit but then accelerate. Maybe because I'm pushing the gas more to make up for the sluggishness. The a/c works, but I THINK it may not be as effective as it normally is. I can't be too sure of that though because it's HOT outside. If I turn the a/c off I have ZERO issues.
My car has about 200k miles on it and I just had a ton of routine maintenance done to it by an experienced technician. It was having the issue prior to the work being done. It's probably not as bad as it was, but it's definitely not right. I can list some of things I had done if that would help rule some things out.
I would appreciate any suggestions.
The problem is the idle sounds rough every 10 seconds or so with the a/c turned on. When you first start up the car, even after a minute, it's a little rough but not too bad. It may get progressively worse just sitting there, not sure. But after I start driving for a bit and then come to a stop, the idling roughness become obvious. When it occurs, the RPM's dip and then almost pulse like a wave for a few seconds before going back to normal. 10 seconds later it repeats. When I say "pulse", I don't meant drastically. It's still at a low sputtering RPM. There are some loud a/c exhalation type sounds when this happens. I think it's also happening while driving with the a/c on because sometimes I'll hit the gas and it might be sluggish a bit but then accelerate. Maybe because I'm pushing the gas more to make up for the sluggishness. The a/c works, but I THINK it may not be as effective as it normally is. I can't be too sure of that though because it's HOT outside. If I turn the a/c off I have ZERO issues.
My car has about 200k miles on it and I just had a ton of routine maintenance done to it by an experienced technician. It was having the issue prior to the work being done. It's probably not as bad as it was, but it's definitely not right. I can list some of things I had done if that would help rule some things out.
I would appreciate any suggestions.
At what point could the A/C have been overcharged with refrigerant? I've had the car for a very long time and I don't think anything specifically has been done to the A/C. Are there other procedures done where the A/C might have become overcharged? I think I had a new radiator installed about 3 years ago, but I'm not sure that would be related. Also, this seems to be a fairly recent development.
Where can I view the condenser fan?
Thanks for the quick response.
At what point could the A/C have been overcharged with refrigerant? I've had the car for a very long time and I don't think anything specifically has been done to the A/C. Are there other procedures done where the A/C might have become overcharged? I think I had a new radiator installed about 3 years ago, but I'm not sure that would be related. Also, this seems to be a fairly recent development.
At what point could the A/C have been overcharged with refrigerant? I've had the car for a very long time and I don't think anything specifically has been done to the A/C. Are there other procedures done where the A/C might have become overcharged? I think I had a new radiator installed about 3 years ago, but I'm not sure that would be related. Also, this seems to be a fairly recent development.
There are two fans in the engine bay, the radiator fan on the passenger side and the condenser fan on the driver's side. The condenser fan should run when the A/C button is pressed with the engine idling. If it doesn't run, you found the problem.
Last edited by RonJ; Aug 3, 2011 at 01:39 PM.
Overcharging could only occur by adding refrigerant to the system or during the course of work done to the system. Your answer seems to rule out this possibility.
There are two fans in the engine bay, the radiator fan on the passenger side and the condenser fan on the driver's side. The condenser fan should run when when the A/C button is pressed with the engine idling. If it doesn't run, you found the problem.
There are two fans in the engine bay, the radiator fan on the passenger side and the condenser fan on the driver's side. The condenser fan should run when when the A/C button is pressed with the engine idling. If it doesn't run, you found the problem.
^of course, also with the cabin blower turned on
OK, I checked the condenser fan and it's definitely not consistently staying on. Does it matter if I'm in Park/Neutral/Drive as to whether or not the fan should blow? I don't need an in-depth answer, but how would this fan not coming on affect the idle being rough? I need to understand better.
OK, I checked the condenser fan and it's definitely not consistently staying on. Does it matter if I'm in Park/Neutral/Drive as to whether or not the fan should blow? I don't need an in-depth answer, but how would this fan not coming on affect the idle being rough? I need to understand better.
The fan cools the condenser. If the fan doesn't work, then the refrigerant pressure on the high side rises to abnormally high levels, which increases the load on the engine because the compressor needs to work harder. This will affect the idle speed.
The condenser fan should run anytime the compressor clutch is engaged. So if the fan turns off and the compressor clutch disengages at about the same time, then the fan is operating properly.
The fan cools the condenser. If the fan doesn't work, then the refrigerant pressure on the high side rises to abnormally high levels, which increases the load on the engine because the compressor needs to work harder. This will affect the idle speed.
The fan cools the condenser. If the fan doesn't work, then the refrigerant pressure on the high side rises to abnormally high levels, which increases the load on the engine because the compressor needs to work harder. This will affect the idle speed.
No, but it's best to do the test with the engine in Park.


