2001 Civic A/C Stopped Suddenly-Compressor Still Works
#1
2001 Civic A/C Stopped Suddenly-Compressor Still Works
Hello,
I have an 01 Civic EX. A/c blew very cold. On a hot day ran into a store, came out to start the car and it blew hot air. Checked the fuses and all seemed fine, but just hot air.
Took it to two mechaniscs, both said the compressor was fine and coolant was fine with no leaks. One mechanic told me it is "probably an electrical realy issue", but could not tell me how much it would cost untill he took the car apart. I was not comfortable with an open ended mechanics bill.
Can you please let me know of some DIY troubleshooting that could help me isolate the real issue here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I have an 01 Civic EX. A/c blew very cold. On a hot day ran into a store, came out to start the car and it blew hot air. Checked the fuses and all seemed fine, but just hot air.
Took it to two mechaniscs, both said the compressor was fine and coolant was fine with no leaks. One mechanic told me it is "probably an electrical realy issue", but could not tell me how much it would cost untill he took the car apart. I was not comfortable with an open ended mechanics bill.
Can you please let me know of some DIY troubleshooting that could help me isolate the real issue here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#2
So when you press the A/C button, the compressor does not engage?
What does happen when you press the button? Does the light in the button come on? Does the engine idle speed change? Do the fans under the hood come on?
What does happen when you press the button? Does the light in the button come on? Does the engine idle speed change? Do the fans under the hood come on?
#5
Both the radiator fan and condenser fan should run when the A/C button is pushed. If so, you may want to test the thermal protector on the compressor and the compressor clutch gap.
Last edited by RonJ; 07-01-2010 at 07:13 AM.
#7
The armature plate gap can be measured with a feeler gauge and a willingness to work in a tight space.
#8
I'm guessing the OP's mechanic jumped the compressor and found the clutch was OK.
I think that on that generation, the thermal protector interrupts the signal before the ECU, so if it were open there'd be no idle increase and no condenser fans.
So that really just leaves the compressor relay. Open the underhood fuse box and swap the relay with one of the other ones.
I think that on that generation, the thermal protector interrupts the signal before the ECU, so if it were open there'd be no idle increase and no condenser fans.
So that really just leaves the compressor relay. Open the underhood fuse box and swap the relay with one of the other ones.
#9
I'm guessing the OP's mechanic jumped the compressor and found the clutch was OK.
I think that on that generation, the thermal protector interrupts the signal before the ECU, so if it were open there'd be no idle increase and no condenser fans.
So that really just leaves the compressor relay. Open the underhood fuse box and swap the relay with one of the other ones.
I think that on that generation, the thermal protector interrupts the signal before the ECU, so if it were open there'd be no idle increase and no condenser fans.
So that really just leaves the compressor relay. Open the underhood fuse box and swap the relay with one of the other ones.
Nonetheless, checking the compressor clutch relay is still a good idea. The fan and compressor relays can be swapped to test this idea.
Last edited by RonJ; 07-01-2010 at 07:49 AM.
#10
Thanks for pulling the diagram, Ron. Diagram shows the old type with thermal protector in series with the clutch, and only one wire connected to the compressor. But the manual posted shows the newer type with a separate thermal protector with it's own plug. I think with those the thermal protector is wired in series with the pressure switch in the low-level control part of the circuit. OP will need to examine the car to see which type is actually in use.
Last edited by mk378; 07-01-2010 at 07:50 AM.