I just checked the relay behind the glove box and sure enough the diode was fried. I took the module next to the steering column out and noticed two solder joints looked like they were cracked so I resoldered them. Now to find someone to sell me a diode.

Update: picked up a multi-pack of diodes from The Source-Circuit City(Radio Shack). In order to orient the diode in the proper direction, looking at the relay with the two silver prongs facing you make sure the cathode(k) is on the left. Thanks again.

 

Brian, about the time you were dealing with my DRL Fuse response I was in the process of picking out a 2007 Civic! Talk about communicating at a snails pace.

 

I really appreciate the ideas generated on this issue.

My problems started with buzzing behind the glove box and an intermittent DRL warning light that I silenced by turning my headlights off. Eventually the buzzing stopped and the DRL warning light was solid and the daytime running lights were inoperable.

I followed suggestions and cleared the cold solder joints in the Daytime Running Light Module but still had the DRL light on my dash and no daytime running lights.

I traded out the DRL Relay located to the left of the glove box but the problem persisted.

I then checked the fuses located below steering column in the 01 Civic it is a 7.5 Amp fuse #12 and a 10 Amp fuse #3. Fuse #3 was the culprit and now the Daytime Running Lights are working perfectly with no DRL warnings.

It appears after reading many threads on this subject there are multiple points of possible failure in the circuit. Module (located to near the Hood release - Grey Box) - Fuses in cabin below steering column - and a relay located to the left side of the glove box (Grey Mitubishi Part RC-5102). It is less likely to be a problem in the headlight switch or parking brake but stranger things have happened.

I think the buzzing noise was intermittent power to the relay by the glove box but was only a symptom from the module power issues.

 

The order of failure of the DRL circuits componets are:
1. Bad solder joints in the DRL Module eventually start causing the DRL relay to chatter.
2. The chattering DRL relay eventually causes the DRL relay coil snubber diode to short out.
3. The shorted diode causes the 10 Amp DRL to blow.
You need to fix the bad solder joints first or else be prepared to do it all over again with replacement fuses and relays.

For additional information search for "Full Meal Deal".

 

with that light on did anyone notice other dash lights not working? my driving light won't come on and cruise light,fog light switches light won't come on..

 

Yaz #3 that was it! I just replaced the switch after checking every fuse that had anything to do with lights, and went back to research to find this post! Thank you!!!!!!!❤️

 

Great. Ditto. Thank. U all. All good input. On this matter. And. A merry Christ~Mas. Too u all