What up civic fans. I have a 94 civic DX. I'm trying to to get my brake lights to work. Not one light goes on when I hit the brakes. It's not the bulbs and it's not the fuse. Does it matter if the 3rd brake light is connected? Can someone tell me if I should check something different. Thanks

 

Bad brake switch at top of brake pedal -- super common problem.

 

i was just reading a old post about that. wasn't sure if that was the same thing happening to me. what steps do i take to fix this. Can I see the switch from the inside? does it have a reset button or I have to change the part and if so can I do it myself?

 

Unplug the switch and jumper between the wires in the plug. If the brake lights come on, replace the switch. Very easy to replace, just loosen the nut and unscrew it. Be sure the new one is adjusted properly. It should be screwed in enough so the lights go out when the pedal is not pressed, but not much further than that. If the switch is holding the pedal down you will have problems with the brakes dragging.

The switch is a sealed unit, nothing to adjust or replace inside.

 

Thanks Mk378.

 

Today, my boyfriend changed the caliper on my brakes of my 94 Honda Civic LX. After changing the caliper and brake pads followed by bleading the brakes. I test drove it. I went up the road and back. I stopped. He told me that i didn't have brake lights. Then i proceeded to put it into reverse. Oh my god. I couldn't get it out of park!!! Panic over came me. I use this car for my news paper route. I have to use it because i have commercial insurance. I hit a car when driving the route 5 years ago. I knew that there is a slot at the shifter that the ignition key fits into that will allow the shifter to move. I did that and was able to get the car into the drive way. We found out that the horn, brake lights and the shifter were connected to the same problem. That is the fuses. We looked under the hood on the passenger side and found that second of three fuses boxes the car has. Two under the hood next to each other. The third is under the steering wheel to the left (drivers fender)inside the car behind the hood release. Okay, we found out the 20 amp fuses that controls the horn was the problem. After replacing that fuses the horn worked again, the brake lights worked, and the shifter moved without the help of the drivers key. I hope this helps someone. Good luck.

 

Crash damage in the front can ground out the horn wires and blow the fuse. If it blows again, check there.

 

On many earlier models there's a tab on the brake pedal arm. This tab is what actually presses the Brake Light Switch plunger, which activates and deactivates the brake light illumination. However, that tab often had a hole right in the center where a small plastic "plug" would sit. The plug and Brake Light Switch plunger make physical contact. I've seen many cases where that "plug" falls out (due to age and use) allowing the Brake Light Switch plunger to sit right in the hole thus never activated when pressing the brake pedal! A great solution is a DIY "plug" using a zip/wiretie, small bolt and nut, or factory plastic push style plug (ones used to fasten plastic parts to the body.