I have a 93 Civic EX (actually my son's) with 230K+ miles and the other day it decided to quit starting.

You turn the key and nothing, no clicking starter or anything.

I have confirmed that you do hear the fuel pump for a couple of seconds, and I know the starter is good because I can manually jump 12V to the solenoid and it does successfully start the car.

I have checked the 50A IG fuse in the fuse box under the hood and when you attempt to start it the dash lights go out. Also, the check engine light goes out like it should after a couple of seconds. I'm leaning towards either the clutch switch or the starter cut relay, but I'm not 100% positive.

I'm actually having alot of trouble reaching either of these 2 items though.

Can anyone offer some advice of either how to actually get to these 2 things and/or how to finish troubleshooting this no start problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Well I finally got the clutch switch out and it works.

From what I have read so far it's easier to run a new wire and add a fuse and switch than it is to get to the starter cut relay.

Anyone know?

 

The diagrams below may help.

Also check for a bad wire (no continuity) to and from the clutch switch and corroded terminals at the starter.

 

RonJ, thanks alot for the drawings. I ran across those previously (I think from you too) and they did help me determine where the cut relay is, but it hasn't helped me figure out how I can get to it. I can't even see it from under the dash.

I'm considering running a new line and putting a switch under the dash. It seems easier than attempting to get to the relay.

 

I'm not a big proponent of improvised fixes. You might try removing both the left-side kick panel and the driver-side lower dashboard cover. You might then have access to the relay for testing.

 

I think it could be the ignition switch. The charge and oil lights on the dash should NOT go out when you turn the key to start (and it doesn't crank). Take the steering column cover off and test for voltage on the terminals of the key switch.

An EX, having factory cruise control, will have two switches on the clutch pedal. Make sure you're testing the right one. It's the one at the top. The one nearer the bottom is just to drop out the cruise when the driver presses the clutch pedal.

The relay is way way up high on the side panel of the car. Put a jumper in the pedal switch plug to connect the two wires together. If it starts then, the relay is OK.

 

RonJ, I'm not either, but after having muscle cramps attempting to contort myself into new fangled positions just to reach some of these places isn't fun. I attempted to take off the upper side dash panel (name?) by popping out the small plastic cover and unscrewing the screw, but it's going to take alot more than just that. I'm going to look at it again today, but I'm not very hopeful unless I drill a new access hole or use a sawzaw.


MK378, thanks for the reply. I had taken the steering column off already and tested voltages on the terminals. I ran into a problem trying to find the 7 pin connnector to follow the pinouts given for troubleshooting. I found a 5 pin but not the 7pin. I also read you could short +B (white) to your ST wire (color?) to bypass the electronic switch to test if the switch was bad, but I didn't see a terminal labelled ST on the back of the ignition switch.

Do you know for sure the best way to test the IG Switch from the backside of the terminals?

Thanks for the help!

 

Did you look for the 7P connector at both the front and the rear side of the under-dash fuse box? The diagram should help with ignition switch troubleshooting:

 

Well, my son finally got home before dark so I was able to look again for the 7pin connector. I found it right on the fuse box although the 5pin was way up above everything. I guess that makes since though seeing that the ST pin has a 7.5A fuse in the fuse box.

I checked out the IG Switch and it checked out fine.

I then proceeded to run a separate line from the ST pin in the 5 pin harness by just adding a wire to the back side of the connector and running it outside directly to the starter, and it worked just fine.

I suppose that points me directly at the starter cut relay again, which is hidden so deeply I'm wondering how long it will take me to actually reach it when I can't even see it.

I suppose I'm considering one of those improvised fixes, unless someone knows a trick to get to this hidden relay.

Anyone?

 

If the car has the factory alarm system, it can disable the starter.

Did you jump the pedal switch? The relays are fairly relaible, the problem is usually the pedal switch. Remember it's the top switch. Also test for 12 volts on the blue-black wire at the pedal switch when the key is turned to start. When the switch closes it grounds this wire and pulls in the relay.