I agree with mk. You already mentioned that the clutch switch tested fine. Therefore, in addition to testing for 12V on the BLU/BLK wire, test also that the BLK ground wire of the clutch switch has continuity.

The diagrams below may help:

 

No alarm on the car (factory or after market). I removed the clutch switch and tested it to make sure it makes continuity when pressed, and it worked just fine.

I didn't actually check for voltages on the wires because it was all I could do to get it unplugged and removed. I don't think I can actually reach a probe up there.

Thanks for all the input so far.

*crosses fingers for more ideas or ways to check the cut relay*

 

The clutch switch circuit must function properly to activate the cut relay that provides power to the starter. Until you prove that the clutch switch circuit is working, your sole focus on the cut relay could be misdirected. Given you currently inability to access and test the cut relay, it would be most productive to test whether the clutch switch is receiving 12V power from the BLU/BLK wire and, if so, whether the BLK wire is able to ground (has continuity) this power source.

Disconnect the clutch switch and attach extension wires to the BLU/BLK and BLK wires for testing with a multimeter. At the same time, place a jumper wire across the 2P switch connector to check whether the starter now fires. If so, the relay is fine.

 

Just put a jumper wire in the plug for the switch. Try to start. If it starts, the switch was not working. If it doesn't start, go from there with further tests.

Switch may work when you test it out of the car but that doesn't prove the pedal was pushing the button sufficiently in the car.

 

have you checked to make sure there is a ground from the chassis to the motor you should have 2 one on the valve cover and one on the tranny