Any help would be appreciated. My sons car died while driving after making a pop noise. It has 150k miles so I assumed the timing belt gave out or jumped. I replaced the timing belt and changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor for piece of mind. Still won't start! Did some checking and found the fuel pump in-op. Replaced the pump still wont start! Found the Helms manual and tested the main relay it appears ok. Removed the relay and jumped the harness and the pump works. When I put the relay (that tests good) back in, the pump wont work. I am not sure where to go from here? After all this it appears to me to be the computer but hate to spend more swapping parts that aren't bad. I tried to start it with starting fluid and it would sputter but not sure it is getting spark? Thanks in advance for any suggestion!

 

Did you find that the original timing belt had slipped or broken? Are you absolutely sure that the engine now has perfect mechanical timing, that is the cam and crank are perfectly synchronized at TDC1? Have you compression tested the cylinders?

When you turn the key to ON(II), does the dash CEL remain ON? If so, pull the code(s) from the ECU using the method detailed at the CEL link in my signature. Post any retrieved codes.

Main relay/fuel pump:
Check whether fuse 31 under the hood or fuse 18 or 24 under the dash is blown.

How to check for spark:
Remove a plug wire from one spark plug. Insert a good spare spark plug into the end of the plug wire. Firmly ground the threads of the plug on the valve cover and then have your son crank the engine. You should see bright white/bluish spark (not weak orange) at the tip of the plug. Repeat for the other plugs. Post your findings.

 

The timing appeared to be ok. I haven't checked compression. I will check the fuses when I get home. Strange thing is when I remove the relay and use a jumper wire in the harness the pump will turn on. I will check for codes as well. Thanks for your help.

 

The important test is to click the key on but don't try to start. Watch the CEL-- it should go on for 2 seconds then go out. When the system is working properly, the main relay will click on for those 2 seconds and the fuel pump will run while the light is on and stop when it goes out.

If it doesn't come on at all check if the ECU is getting power (another clue is do the the oil and charge lights come on and stay on, they are on the same circuit). If the CEL comes on and doesn't go out, it's usually the main relay but it could rarely be a dead ECU also.

 

The CEL stays on indefinitely. I retested the main relay and it tests ok. When I jumped the m/r plug I can get the fuel pump to work. I gave up this morning and had it towed to the Honda-Dr. They called and said the pcm is bad and cost $450 to have it rebuilt with a lifetime warranty.Does that sound like a reasonable price or should I look elsewhere for the part?