Hello all,
I would appreciate any help about this problem.
Wife driving Civic cuts out, will not start.
I checked that the timing belt was intact and timing right.
I replaced the whole distributor,distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs. All these things were due anyway, except maybe the distributor.
No spark condition.
I checked the main relay which gets voltage to the fuel pump, ECU and gnds at the proper ignition position.
coil getting voltage at ignition on position. The replacement distributor included included the coil,ICM, and sensors
I checked for fuel pressure at the rail side of the fuel filter. Fuel leaks out when I barely loosen the bolt on the top of the filter(engine side)
I smell fuel at the tail pipe.
I tried starting with the coolant sensor disconnected. The ground at this sensor is good.
CEL light operates normal when I turn the ignition switch, that is it comes on for 2-3 seconds and goes off.
With the test point jumpered, the CEL comes on solid- No blinking codes.

consistent no spark condition

Question. What else should I test? Does this sound like a bad ECU?

thanks for any help

 

Have you replaced Spark Plug Wires?

 

Do you get power to the coil in the start position? You can unplug the small wire at the starter so it doesn't actually turn. Sometimes the ignition switch is bad and doesn't power up the coil while starting, this will cause a no start.

 

thanks,

I'm being non-driven crazy with this problem!

I'll try the coil power at starting position with the starter unplugged.

I'll also check the resistance of the spark plug wires.

What does the solid on CEL with the ignition on and the jumpered diagnostic plug mean?

 

I got power at the coil with ignition in start position...
still cranking no start

 

It's possible your new distributor is bad. Especially if it's a chain store rebuilt. Check for spark right at the coil with the cap off, hold a grounded test wire near the output spring.

The CEL should come on steady with the jumper in. That means no codes are stored. The cycle on and off and prime the fuel pump with the jumper out usually means the ECU is basically OK.

 

Yes, the new distributor being bad was a thought I had. It is a Cardone reman from Autozone... and fits your description.

I'll do the test at the coil tower for spark, that should tell me... That should be while cranking, right?

thanks so much for the help

 

OK, there is no spark at the coil. I pulled the reman. distributor thinking this is a prime suspect. I will really be PO'ed if this was bad part from the Advance store.

How do I get this checked other than returning it to the store saying it is a prime suspect? I'll measure the resistance of the coil.

Should I be suspecting the ECU?? Does it trigger the spark or does it just advance and retard the timing?

I double checked the ground at the coolant temp sensor and the gnd to the valve cover bolt.

 

The ECU triggers the spark. It sends out properly timed low power pulses to the ICM inside the distributor which then amplifies them to drive the coil. So it could be either one. If you have an oscilloscope you could look for the pulses.

 

I do have a "silly"scope, but I don't have access to AC power on site where the car died.

It is beginning to look like I should shop for an ECU. I'm wandering if I should go for a "pull" on eBay for ~100 bucks or a reman from Advance at ~$300.

I was reading another thread about troubleshooting ECUs for an Acura. I says if the CEL light comes on and stays lit when trying to get the codes, the ECU is dead. Does this apply to the civic?