'96 Honda Civic DX - Won't start, or crank
Ok guys, I'm getting really irritated with this problem. I've searched, but haven't found anyone that's having the same problem that I am.
3 days ago, my perfectly running 96 Civic decided it didn't want to start...And when I say didn't want to start, no crank, no nothing. Turn the key over and DEAD. Battery is fine, 12.55v, alternator is fine, etc. I drove my other car to work.
Then, about 40 minutes later, I met the wrecker at my place since I was going to have the Honda towed to a Honda dealer and diagnosed (Yeah I knew I was going to pay out the ***, but I didn't want to deal with the car at that point in time). So, I met the guy with the wrecker at the house, but just for grins decided to try and start the car...It started, but with the CEL on.
Fast forward...It gets to the shop, they diagnose it, CEL was code P1359 - Bad TDC sensor. They replaced the distributor subassembly, cleared the code, and I picked up the car. It started NO problem.
Welp, $500 bucks later and I'm back to square 1. This morning the car wouldn't start...No cranking, no nothing...Totally dead. My best guess at this point is either a failing ignition switch, or possibly a bad connection to the starter.
What do the gurus think? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks guys! (And please pardon my frustration)
3 days ago, my perfectly running 96 Civic decided it didn't want to start...And when I say didn't want to start, no crank, no nothing. Turn the key over and DEAD. Battery is fine, 12.55v, alternator is fine, etc. I drove my other car to work.
Then, about 40 minutes later, I met the wrecker at my place since I was going to have the Honda towed to a Honda dealer and diagnosed (Yeah I knew I was going to pay out the ***, but I didn't want to deal with the car at that point in time). So, I met the guy with the wrecker at the house, but just for grins decided to try and start the car...It started, but with the CEL on.
Fast forward...It gets to the shop, they diagnose it, CEL was code P1359 - Bad TDC sensor. They replaced the distributor subassembly, cleared the code, and I picked up the car. It started NO problem.
Welp, $500 bucks later and I'm back to square 1. This morning the car wouldn't start...No cranking, no nothing...Totally dead. My best guess at this point is either a failing ignition switch, or possibly a bad connection to the starter.
What do the gurus think? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks guys! (And please pardon my frustration)
Turn the headlights on and try to start. If the lights go out, you probably have a bad connection at the battery. If the lights stay on you can jump the starter to see if the starter and battery are OK. To do this make absolutely sure the car is in neutral and the brake set. Unplug the small wire at the starter and connect a test wire from battery (+) to the small terminal at the starter. The engine should crank. Stand to the side of the car so it can't run over you if it does happen to move because it wasn't in neutral.
If you can jump the starter like that, there is a problem with the key switch or the interlock switch or other small wiring. On a manual the switch on the clutch pedal is commonly a problem.
If you can jump the starter like that, there is a problem with the key switch or the interlock switch or other small wiring. On a manual the switch on the clutch pedal is commonly a problem.
Turn the headlights on and try to start. If the lights go out, you probably have a bad connection at the battery. If the lights stay on you can jump the starter to see if the starter and battery are OK. To do this make absolutely sure the car is in neutral and the brake set. Unplug the small wire at the starter and connect a test wire from battery (+) to the small terminal at the starter. The engine should crank. Stand to the side of the car so it can't run over you if it does happen to move because it wasn't in neutral.
If you can jump the starter like that, there is a problem with the key switch or the interlock switch or other small wiring. On a manual the switch on the clutch pedal is commonly a problem.
If you can jump the starter like that, there is a problem with the key switch or the interlock switch or other small wiring. On a manual the switch on the clutch pedal is commonly a problem.
I should have mentioned this, but I've already checked the connection to the battery. I also checked the connection to the starter this morning. There was a little condensation in the starter wire boot, but nothing major...I did get the car started. Now it's throwing a check engine code...again.I drove it back to Honda (ONLY reason is because all the work is warrantied), so if it blew that tdc sensor again that's covered.
I thought about the clutch safety switch, too. That's another likely culprit, so maybe I should have them check that. Thanks again!
When you turn the key to ON(II), do all of the expected lights in the gauge assembly turn ON?
Pull the CEL code at home using the jumper wire method detailed at the link in my signature. Be careful about troubleshooting any CEL codes until you solve the electrical problem, which can in some instances lead to false trouble codes. Also don't troubleshoot codes unless they can be repeated after clearing the ECU.
Pull the CEL code at home using the jumper wire method detailed at the link in my signature. Be careful about troubleshooting any CEL codes until you solve the electrical problem, which can in some instances lead to false trouble codes. Also don't troubleshoot codes unless they can be repeated after clearing the ECU.
When you turn the key to ON(II), do all of the expected lights in the gauge assembly turn ON?
Pull the CEL code at home using the jumper wire method detailed at the link in my signature. Be careful about troubleshooting any CEL codes until you solve the electrical problem, which can in some instances lead to false trouble codes. Also don't troubleshoot codes unless they can be repeated after clearing the ECU.
Pull the CEL code at home using the jumper wire method detailed at the link in my signature. Be careful about troubleshooting any CEL codes until you solve the electrical problem, which can in some instances lead to false trouble codes. Also don't troubleshoot codes unless they can be repeated after clearing the ECU.
Thanks!
Is this also true when the engine fails to crank (that is the starter doesn't turn the engine)?
I'm pretty sure all the lights go out when I turn to the "start" position. I'll double check though.
However, I'm pretty sure the problem is the starter here. Right before I got the car to start, I went over and checked the connections to the starter and gave it a little knock.
That's when the car had started.
Then, yesterday at the dealership, the car wouldn't start for them either. They had someone inside the car with the key on while someone else knocked on the starter, and it fired right up...So hopefully that's the culprit.
So explain to me this...This is just my crackpot theory, but hear me out. Since the ECU is throwing the SAME code again for the TDC sensor (which correct me if I'm wrong, but that's just a fancy way of saying crank sensor), is it possible that the sensor was sending garbage data to the ECU since the car wasn't cranking properly? Then that in turned caused the ECU to get confused and say "hey, this sensor isn't sending me valid data. It must be bad. Throw code for TDC sensor." And that is why the code is on again?
Again, just my crackpot theory.
However, I'm pretty sure that my starter is going bad in this particular case. Thanks for your help guys!
However, I'm pretty sure the problem is the starter here. Right before I got the car to start, I went over and checked the connections to the starter and gave it a little knock.
That's when the car had started.Then, yesterday at the dealership, the car wouldn't start for them either. They had someone inside the car with the key on while someone else knocked on the starter, and it fired right up...So hopefully that's the culprit.
So explain to me this...This is just my crackpot theory, but hear me out. Since the ECU is throwing the SAME code again for the TDC sensor (which correct me if I'm wrong, but that's just a fancy way of saying crank sensor), is it possible that the sensor was sending garbage data to the ECU since the car wasn't cranking properly? Then that in turned caused the ECU to get confused and say "hey, this sensor isn't sending me valid data. It must be bad. Throw code for TDC sensor." And that is why the code is on again?
Again, just my crackpot theory.
However, I'm pretty sure that my starter is going bad in this particular case. Thanks for your help guys!
hi i am having the same problem as you. my car just died on me when i went fishing and park it. when i came back it wont even crank. i check all the battery terminal and try to jump start it wont even work. i will check the starter tomorrow and take it to autozone and have it tested. also i saw someone mention about the clutch sensor i think. where would i find that at? please help......... thank you
also what is a CEL code?
can anyone help me troubleshoot.... thank you.
p.s. i am new to this site.
also what is a CEL code?
can anyone help me troubleshoot.... thank you.
p.s. i am new to this site.
Last edited by trustdestruction; May 27, 2010 at 05:10 AM. Reason: merged 3 consecutive posts into one...
CEL stands for Check Engine Light. It's the little orange light on your dash with a picture of an engine on it. When you turn the key to ACC it should come on as you hear the fuel pump pressurize the lines, then it will go out. If it's on solid as you're driving, then it means your car is throwing a check engine code. Hope that helps!
Good luck.
Good luck.


