Went out a few days ago, let it run for a few minutes and checked the oil and it ran fine. Went back out yesterday and went to start it, started but died immediately, and hasn't started since. I have spark, I pulled out one of the plugs and layed it out while I cranked it over, nice blue/white spark. I have fuel, I can hear the fuel pump run and the main relay click, no check engine light or codes. I loosened the bolt on top of the fuel filter and turned on the key and it spewed out gas so I know the fuel pump is working. I know that's not a good thing to do, but it's also not very helpful for Honda to not put a hookup for a pressure gauge either. I even tried spraying some starting fluid in the throttle body then cranking it and still nothing. Any ideas?

 

Next I'd take the upper timing belt cover off and check that the cam is still in time.

Also if you don't have a gauge adapter and a gauge, check the fuel flow by disconnecting the return hose instead. This will demonstrate that the fuel rail indeed reaches full operating pressure (unless the regulator is bad).

 

You also might have a problem with the circuit for the Crankshaft Position/Top Dead Center/Cylinder Position sensor or the CKF sensor.

Other possible reasons to consider for your starting problem are low compression and an intake air leak.

 

sounds like a timing issue to me.

 

Thanks guys, I guess I'll pull the valve cover today and check the timing belt. We tried a while back to replace the timing belt and water pump when I got the car since I didn't know if it had been replaced or not yet and we couldn't get the crank pulley bolt out. I bought the tool that fits inside the crank pulley to hold it still but even with a 6 ft. breaker bar we couldn't budge it.

 

Put on a new distributor today, that wasn't it either. I did notice thought that when I adjust it towards the rear of the car to advance the timing that it stumbles a little and when I retard it towards the front of the car it just cranks. I definately think it's out of time somehow even though all the teeth are still intact on the timing belt. Is it possible for the timing belt to jump when it's good and tight and all of the teeth are intact?

 

After tearing it all apart, it was in time after all. Culprit was probably the crank sensor though it never threw a code. We jiggle the wires on it and messed with the distributor timing a bit and it fired right up.