I didn't read anything in your thread that would suggest that either the ECT sending unit or sensor might be bad.

 

Ok, so I jumped the fan and it comes on with the key turned. Now I just need to procure a socket or wrench large enough to swap out the fan switch.

 

I replaced the fan switch with a 24mm socket (in case anyone was wondering the size), then took 'er out for a drive. Beat it up a bit, parked it in the driveway, and there it has been sitting for 10 minutes with no overheating. Now, I still have not seen the fan come on, so it may be because the weather is a little cooler today. In any case, I have a new problem now. Due to the smell of coolant on the engine, my wife asked me to spray the engine off, which I did. Well, while it wasn't on initially, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. Soooo..... is it from spraying water on the engine (it was not running at the time, nor was it warm) or could it be related to replacing the switch?

 

pull the codes and let us know what code..

 

to rule out the fan motor, unplug the power connector of the fan. hardwire the fan to the battery, it will come on as soon as you connect them. it doesnt matter how you connect it, if you connect it backwards your fan will blow in the opposite direction and vise versa. if your fan comes on then its not that !

 

^ read his post thats already been done.....

 

I pulled the backup fuse for 10 seconds and that made the CEL go away. Car runs fine. I couldn't get it to overheat last night after installing the new switch, but what's odd is that it never got warm enough for the fan to come on. I drove it and left it in th driveway for at least half an hour and still nothing. Strange. I wouldn't think simply replacing the fan switch would affect the temp at all, and I certainly drove it as much as I would to overheat it before. I think it's fixed but I'm a little confused. I'll let you know if anything changes. Thanks for the tips, all.