Well, AZ loans out the clutch /coil asbly pullers- gonna get one and try it.......I'll see what happens- hope I dont pull on the wrong edge and crack something......

 

First remove the nut (counterclockwise, conventional right hand thread) and the clutch plate will just slide off. Be careful not to lose the shim washers.

Then remove the snap ring with snap ring pliers and the pulley is ready to come off. Any gear puller can do that, but it is important not to just push on the compressor shaft with the jack screw while pulling the pulley off. You need a socket or something similar and round, slightly smaller than the ID of the pulley bearing, to transfer force to the main boss that is part of the frame instead.

Then there is another snap ring that holds the coil on.

Since you're not sure about the internal condition of the compressor anyway, it may be time to just punt and replace the whole unit.

 

Thanks again, MK, for your persistent continued support. I need that!

OK, got the plate off, and snap ring (easy). Also, bumped off the pulley evenly/slowly using wood dowel/hammer. Also, pretty easy. Now, that last ring clamp holding the magnet is sooo deep. But, I'll get it off somehow. Thebigger question- once that last snap ring is off, will the magnet just drop off or with a little bumping OR will I need special puller? Will that bearing HAVE to come off as well to get the magnet off? (working on that last ring now- if fails, going to see a buddy tomorrow with a good Snap On tool)........

Thanks, MK.

 

Bearing? The bearing should have stayed attached to the pulley.

The coil will just bump off once its snap ring is off.

 

Yiiiiikes!!!!! The pulley popped of easily, MK!! Now, bearing is still tight on the shaft!! Do I have to pull off bearing necessarily to get coil off then? next time, or on the other comp that has the "good" coil, is there a right way to get off that pulley with a puller? Cuz, I cant see where one would atach the puller jaw "teeth" other than to the puller's edges, and bearing is tucked way inside. Is there still hope?

Im in trouble now........

 

2 days is a long time to study- turns out that comp's magnet is good. My ohm meter apparently is a piece of junk. Buddy's meter is 1st class, and it spec'd out at about 3.4 ohms- a good magnet!!!
Man, am I happy!

So, now, no need to remove that bearing and magnet- will swap out the car's comp outright (except I will have to scavenge the cars clutch/pulley end, as the other one is rusted out, and kep the thermo switch from the car's comp). As of now, I dont have any tech problems, guys. If so, I'll let you know.

 

Finally got it done! Went together really nice. gassed it up, and blows cold! Now, will just watch for leaks (found none first time around, but I never trust leaks)

Thanks to all esp MK!

 

What did you end up doing about the bearing? The pulley is not supposed to come off of the bearing like it did. I'd be concerned about it falling off during operation.

 

Hmm, good question. maybe Im not explaining something right, MK, but the pulley I pushed back on went on as easy as the other one came off (the same bearing/comp, of course). Isnt that pulley sopposed to be "loose" like that since the serpentine belt has to spin freely when comp/clutch is not engaged?

Also, pulley cant slide off since the C clamp spring keeps it on, right? How can it jump the C spring clamp?

 

During operation, the pulley isn't supposed to move in any direction except rotate. No wobbling and no axial motion. The snap ring holds the inner part of the bearing onto the compressor frame. The bearing is pretty much supposed to stay attached to the pulley at all times, it is pressed in with considerable force and also (I think) "staked" in place by upsetting the metal of the pulley to prevent the bearing from coming out.