Hi people,

Have the comp on the bench finally, and wondering if anyone can help-

1) does my 2001 ex comp have a "diode"- wanting to jolt it with 12v to confirm clutch operation and if it has a diode one can ruin it

2) best way to flush it? Carb cleaner/swish/empty/dry?

3) this is a scroll- can I test the pressure of the comp by holding 2 fingers to plug it on the ports and spin the comp shaft?

Thaks People!

 

1. I don't think there's any diode, but it's not that complicated to make sure (-) is the ground and (+) goes to the clutch wire.
2. Never use solvent in a compressor. Flush new PAG oil through it-- pour into inlet, rotate compressor shaft, and dump it out the outlet. Remember the engine and compressor rotate counterclockwise viewed looking at the pulley. Cover the ports securely to keep moisture out during storage, then flush again and fill with new oil just before installing. PAG oil absorbs moisture rapidly.
3. You can stop one port at a time to see if it makes pressure or vacuum.

 

Thanks, MK! Looks like thats all I need for now to got o the next step! Gonna get a big bottle of pag, just to make sure I have plenty to wash it out with and then add the right amt.

Well, BOTH red and blk wires are connected to the clutch. So not sure what you mean by (+) goes to the clutch wire.

When its all cleaned out, add about 2oz oil? Also, why do you point out the couterclockwise motion? Does it matter which way one spins it when flushing/cleaning with the oil?

Thanks!

 

OK, just tried it and no click. Now, I figure could be the thermo protector switch on top- could bypass it and try it again. How do you remove that switch? Looks like its "welded" in.....

 

just found this:
Sanden AC Compressor Service Operations Thermal Protector Switch and High Pressure Relief Valve

now, no solvent dissolves silicone. And, this TCE evaporates too quick to do any good. This ones a head scratcher.......

 

Well, noticed there was a clip connecting the red wire, so just pushed back the sheath and jumped it that way. Yes, got a click, but geez, was kinda a wimpy click- only PART of the outer clutch plate connected. Yeah. Should the entire circumference click close /touching the pulley? What does this mean?

 

ok, now, tested for ohms at clutch (red and blk wires), and got infinity. Is the magnet shot? (I did this before the circuit goes to the thermo switch)

 

Yes it sounds like your coil is open. Should be 3 to 4 ohms measured at the coil. When you connect and disconnect the battery, you should get some sparks indicating current is flowing.

And the two leads of the protector should be zero ohms to each other (a closed switch).

 

Thanks, MK. Im on the right track, so far. Now, I got no sparks that you mention when touching the contacts to battery terminals. Also, whe measuring for ohms, the meter contacts were at about say, 3" away from actual coil- so will that negate my ohms value then? Or do I have to probe deep into the coil (red/blk wires enter coil protected/sheathed by rubber seal)? Dont see any other way. Otherwise, if my measurement was adequate 3" away we'll leave it at that, eh?

 

So, assuming coils shot, onto the next part of the plan- remove the coil/pulley and replace with a good one. I couldnt find any reference online that shows how to do this. Is it dificult? Do I need basically just to pull off pulley? Does coil pop/drop out easily?

Thanks!