So here is the problem, i recently did a mini-me swap on my 1995 Honda Civic EX Manual. When i bough the car it had a rod through the motor so i used my stock Z6 head on my new D16Y7 block. I reused the same intake manifold and manual transmission and just finished everything yesterday. What the problem my speedometer does not work, everything else works, Tach, Fuel, Water Temp. The Speedo sensor is hooked up to the transmission, (passenger side below intake manifold right above where the axles hook up to the tran.) I believe this is also the culprit as to why my VTEC does not engage. For the record when i first start the car (cold) the idle fluctuates about 1000 RPM up and down up and down (for a few seconds) and then remains constant but the engine shakes a bit. When i rev the motor it drops a bit below idle and hesitates then resumes a stable idle. Another thing i notice is the motor is extremely sluggish when i really get on it. Please Help?

 

Yeah, VTEC won't work if the VSS fails (see diagram below).

Is the CEL ON?

Does the odometer also not work?

Check whether fuse 24 under the dash is blown.

With respect to the idle and sluggish problems, have you checked the spark plugs and ignition timing? Try cleaning the fast idle valve and IACV on the throttle body. Also try bleeding the cooing system of possible trapped air.

 

Yes the CEL does come on, the odometer also does not work, i carb cleaned out the IACV valve and that did not provide much help or any overall effect for that matter. What is the fast idle valve? I will check the sparkplugs when i get home, i know the cam/crank are properly timed, but im pretty sure the distributor is in the right ballpark also. Will also check coolant when i get home, on the ride home i had the heater up full blast to purge out any possible bubble and temp remained a bit below 1/2

 

what do you mean by continuity between BLK/ ground? what setting would that be on the multimeter?

 

Check the ignition timing with a timing gun. Here's info on the fast idle valve and how to check its function:

 

Use the resistance (Ohms) setting of the multimeter. Continuity indicates virtually no resistance (low Ohm reading -- needle should jump similarly to touching the multimeter probes to each other).

Be sure to pull the CEL code as detailed at the link in my signature. I expect that one code may be for the VSS, but other relevant unexpected codes may also be found.

 

your amazing man!

 

I don't think it's your fast idle valve. When you start the car cold it's suppose to rev up and down a few times and then calm down. I had a bad fast idle valve, and when it did this it was revving to like 3000rpms, not 1000rpms. 1000rpms sounds normal, or if you meant 1000rpms above idle, which would be 1650 rpms, still sounds about right.

 

I will be able to test the car hopefully tonight, one of my other concerns was why their was such a lack of power? Even floored in any gear seemed bogging? I was wondering if it may have something to do with the Y7 Block, Z6 Head? I was figuring the now 9.88:1 Compression would certainly aid performance rather than not. Maybe Fuel Injectors not pushing enough? When i did a compression test i got around 145PSI all cylinders +/- 5

 

If your block is the same cc size as the old one it won't matter to the computer. You need to clear the CEL problem first before worrying too much about "bogging" because it is designed to run with reduced performance while the light is on for whatever reason.