bing, bing bing! mk378, it looks like you were right. The mechanic said that there was voltage at step 5 on the L wire, but it would not light his test light either. I couldn't believe it. So the test was actually passed. SO now it is time to replace it again. He figures maybe one of the brushes is bad, and that is why it was intermittent.

Does anyone know of an easy way to get the alternator out. I don't want to have to remove the axel. The last time, as I am not sure I have all the right tools or confidence for that. Last time I ended up stuffing the alternator up and across the back of the engine, but it is a tight fit, and I feel that one of these times I will damage a hose that is back there as it is a very tight squeeze to get it by, but it is the only way I could get it out, and the new one back in.

I know it will not come through the top and can't seem to get it out of the bottom.

 

It's a tight fit any way you do it, reportedly it is simplest to remove like you did-- bring it over to the right side of the car (near the starter) and lift out.

 

The failure of the test light to turn on in test 5 whereas it did in test 6 suggests a problem in the L circuit to me. If you repeat test 5 but instead ground the L terminal to the engine or frame with a jumper wire, does the dash battery/charge system warming light turn on?

The alternator drops down and out from below after the mount bracket is removed.

 

Well as it turned out the test 5 was actually passed (I wasn't too clear in my last post) The L did not light my test light or the mechanics, but the mechanics voltage meter showed voltage...I can't remember what it was. I had to see it with my own eyes. The mechanic mentioned something about bulb impedance of our test lights...I thought it was odd that it would not even glow, yet there was voltage showing on the test meter.

Anyway I took it back (they bench tested it and found it to be faulty as well so they exchanged it)

I did however find an easy way of removal and reinstallation. (88 civic automatic sedan 1.5L)

I drove it up on car ramps, and removed the plastic shroud near the drivers side front wheel, and both the alternator and the lower mounting bracket. There was not yet enough room to get it out, so I raised the drivers side of the car a wee bit to take the weight off the wheel. With the wheel essentially lowered a bit, in relation to the body the alternator then easily came through between the wheel-well and the steering part that was orginally stopping it. ( Whatever the part is that was stopping it was now lowered allowing a larger opening between body and it)

Because my car was on car-ramps I had to set the jack on a couple of blocks and had to lift further down from where the proper lift point is.) I blocked that side of the car and only put my arm underneath to slide the new alternator back through, and then removed the blocking and jack before crawling under to continue the installation.

If I have to do it again I will use jack stands, and then it should be a fairly easy job.

Thanks again everyone, I really do appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge.