Another A/C Problem (kind of urgent?)
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What did you do to fix it and what did you fix?
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If you're talking about jumping the battery to the compressor wire, and it didn't engage, a few things could do that.
First never do this with the engine running, because without the condenser fan the pressure will almost immediately rise out of control and blow the relief valve or a hose.
Check the resistance from the compressor wire to ground, it should be 3 or 4 ohms. If it is open, check after the thermal switch mounted on top of the compressor. If still open you need a new clutch coil. This can be replaced without buying a whole compressor and also without opening the refrigerant system.
If you have the 3 to 4 ohms, with engine OFF jumper the clutch wire to battery plus. See if the clutch snaps in. If it doesn't, press on the clutch plate and it should snap in. This means that the clutch gap is too wide. Unscrew the shaft nut and take the plate off. Take some of the shim washers off of the shaft. Put the plate back on(*), make sure the gap is not so close that it drags when off. Now the clutch should work again.
(*) Note that the way the splines on the shaft are made, the plate can only fit on the shaft in one rotational position. Do not force it on in the wrong position.
First never do this with the engine running, because without the condenser fan the pressure will almost immediately rise out of control and blow the relief valve or a hose.
Check the resistance from the compressor wire to ground, it should be 3 or 4 ohms. If it is open, check after the thermal switch mounted on top of the compressor. If still open you need a new clutch coil. This can be replaced without buying a whole compressor and also without opening the refrigerant system.
If you have the 3 to 4 ohms, with engine OFF jumper the clutch wire to battery plus. See if the clutch snaps in. If it doesn't, press on the clutch plate and it should snap in. This means that the clutch gap is too wide. Unscrew the shaft nut and take the plate off. Take some of the shim washers off of the shaft. Put the plate back on(*), make sure the gap is not so close that it drags when off. Now the clutch should work again.
(*) Note that the way the splines on the shaft are made, the plate can only fit on the shaft in one rotational position. Do not force it on in the wrong position.
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Posts: 73
My problem was actually just the connection to the A/C control, a wire had slipped out of the harness. The dome problem, I recommend you use the old radio and just leave it plugged in, fixed it right up.
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I actually don't have a way of measuring it right now, seeing that it's 11:21 P.M. here, but I'll tell you as soon as I know.
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There's actually a chance my stepbrother may have, he had the car before me.
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HCF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 73
If you're talking about jumping the battery to the compressor wire, and it didn't engage, a few things could do that.
First never do this with the engine running, because without the condenser fan the pressure will almost immediately rise out of control and blow the relief valve or a hose.
Check the resistance from the compressor wire to ground, it should be 3 or 4 ohms. If it is open, check after the thermal switch mounted on top of the compressor. If still open you need a new clutch coil. This can be replaced without buying a whole compressor and also without opening the refrigerant system.
If you have the 3 to 4 ohms, with engine OFF jumper the clutch wire to battery plus. See if the clutch snaps in. If it doesn't, press on the clutch plate and it should snap in. This means that the clutch gap is too wide. Unscrew the shaft nut and take the plate off. Take some of the shim washers off of the shaft. Put the plate back on(*), make sure the gap is not so close that it drags when off. Now the clutch should work again.
(*) Note that the way the splines on the shaft are made, the plate can only fit on the shaft in one rotational position. Do not force it on in the wrong position.
First never do this with the engine running, because without the condenser fan the pressure will almost immediately rise out of control and blow the relief valve or a hose.
Check the resistance from the compressor wire to ground, it should be 3 or 4 ohms. If it is open, check after the thermal switch mounted on top of the compressor. If still open you need a new clutch coil. This can be replaced without buying a whole compressor and also without opening the refrigerant system.
If you have the 3 to 4 ohms, with engine OFF jumper the clutch wire to battery plus. See if the clutch snaps in. If it doesn't, press on the clutch plate and it should snap in. This means that the clutch gap is too wide. Unscrew the shaft nut and take the plate off. Take some of the shim washers off of the shaft. Put the plate back on(*), make sure the gap is not so close that it drags when off. Now the clutch should work again.
(*) Note that the way the splines on the shaft are made, the plate can only fit on the shaft in one rotational position. Do not force it on in the wrong position.
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Viper_Is_Hot
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
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Oct 20, 2004 11:46 AM
1998, ac, add, air, blows, civic, condenser, conditioner, fan, freon, fuse, honda, kind, refrigerant, thermostat
