ok so we really thought my car wasnt starting cause the belt was kinda loose so we took it off and i looked a new one to see if it was streched....sooo its about 1/4 longer then the new one,is that even enough to be causing all this trouble with the car not starting??...Plus my dad wanted to know if the crank pulley sensor could be causing any of this as well???

 

anyone??

 

Problems with the crankshaft fluctuation (CKF) sensor should cause the CEL to turn ON.

If the stretching of the timing belt allowed it to slip several or more teeth, then yes it could cause starting problems. Prior to removal of the timing belt, were the crankshaft and camshaft substantially misaligned at TDC?

If there was substantial belt slippage, it could also have damaged the valves and pistons. If this is a possibility, then you should compression test the cylinders.

 

no when it was loose before we took it off it was still pretty much in time....we were running outta ideas so i thought i would ask...we would test the compression but we dont have anything to test it with......doesnt the CEL only stay on when you actually have the car running??

 

So were the crankshaft and camshaft perfectly aligned or out of alignment at TDC? If out of alignment, by how many teeth? Were the belt teeth badly damaged or worn?

If you continue to have starting problems, then you can borrow the necessary tools for a compression test at AutoZone free of charge.

To test the CEL, you need only to turn the ignition key to ON without cranking the engine. The CEL should turn ON for about 2 seconds then turn OFF if no codes are stored in the ECU.

 

well i guess i dont have any codes then cause thats what it does....im not sure if those tools are free either....i think its like 20 bucks but ill call tomm and make sure though.My dad said that both gears were aligned.....the belt was kinda loose but i dont think it skipped any teeth though since it was pretty much TDC...thats why we are stuck on what to check next.

 

In essence, the AutoZone tools are free. You must, however, leave a deposit equal to the tool's value. The deposit is returned when you return the tool.

Start by checking for spark at each of the four plugs. If there is no problem with spark, then measure the fuel pressure.

 

we checked the spark a long time ago...all plugs are getting spark,not sure about the pressure of the fuel but i know its getting it right before the regulator...still never really figured out why the outside plugs seemed really wet with fuel and the inside ones were pretty dry like they should be.

 

Perhaps the fuel injectors for the inside cylinders aren't working?

 

i just put barely used ones in there that were alot newer then the ones we had in there after this started going on...its just really frustrating cause we have pretty much checked and changed almost everything you can unless its something we forgot about.