Should I test once the engine is warm and should the holes be sucking air on cold start?
For the throttle plate, what do I do if it isn't closed all the way? Because the TPS idle voltage is set by adjusting the throttle stop screw, I adjusted it to .50 V idle and 4.5V WOT, so if I had to back it out to allow the throttle plate to close more it would mess up my TPS values. Although I read the spec is .45-.50, so i could probably back it off a tiny bit.

 

The throttle stop screw must always be adjusted so the plate closes all the way, yet does not slam against the sides of the throttle body. It is not used to set idle speed or TPS voltage.

The TPS voltage is set by loosening the screws that hold the sensor to the throttle body and moving only the sensor. That was supposed to be set up permanently at the factory, then the TPS is secured with breakaway screws. You will need to remove the breakaway screws and replace with regular ones to make the TPS adjustable. They are small versions of the breakaway screws used on the steering column lock. Either cut slots in the heads and remove with a flat screwdriver, or drill the heads off.

 

That is how you set the WOT voltage for the TPS, I've already done that. Every guide I've read says to set the WOT by rotating it, and then you set the idle with the throttle stop screws. I can't think of any other way to set the idle voltage, because when you set the WOT to the correct value, you have to adjust the stop screw for the idle value. If there is another way I could try it.

 

Holding the throttle plate open is going to make it idle too fast, there is no way around that. So set up the TPS for proper idle voltage and let the WOT voltage be what it is. Check that the sensor supply voltage is close to 5.0 volts, as WOT voltage will be proportional to that.

 

OK well I'll have to pull off the piping and check. You said to make sure the holes for IACV and FITV arent' sucking air, is this for when the engine is warm?
Tried a new fuel pressure regulator today and that hasn't fixed the problem either.

 

FITV should be closed when engine is warm, and IACV should be closed with wires disconnected. The other hole is for the air adjusting screw. If you block off all 3 holes with your fingers, engine should stall out.

 

The IM gasket may be leaking.

Did you unplug the IACV to see whether the idle speed drops, as mk mentioned?

 

Ya didn't make a significant difference, maybe 100 rpm drop or so but just seemed to make it run worse. I'm also suspecting the intake manifold gasket. I'll pull off the piping to the intake to make sure the throttle plates fully closed and the holes aren't sucking air after Christmas. If this doesn't work I'll prob bring it to my mechanic. Thanks for all the help guys very appreciated, I'll post an update soon. Happy holidays

 

I readjusted the tps down to .47V at idle, now the car idles right where I want it at 1000rpm. Still extremely rich. I've tried replacing the ECT sensor, and fuel pressure regulator. What else could it be? Someone said intake air temp sensor, should I try changing this?

 

Quit with the replacenick stuff. The IAT and ECT sensors can be tested with an ohmmeter. Look in the service manual for specifications.

I think the fundamental issue is you have a chipped tuneable ECU, and it is mistuned. Or maybe the F/A gauge should not be trusted. If you ignore that gauge (like the rest of us that don't have one in the first place), would you say the car is running OK?