Dead battery... Alternator going bad????
Last week I was driving, all of a sudden the car felt a bit strange. The "SRS" ( airbag light ) came on I pulled over and let off the clutch, at that moment the car died. I spoke to a friend and he suggested to remove the fuse from my aftermarket stereo. After I did the car started back up, I was able to get it home. Prior to the incident I had been noticing the car was struggling to start every once in a while. Currently the car is starting but it takes a few secs, come to think of it i should go check again today. So my question is, Was this an alternator problem part on by my aftermarket stereo? and if so What are my options now, a bigger alternator?, a stock alternator with a capacitor?
One thing I have noticed is the volt reading on my capacitor seems to sometimes stay on when my car is off could this be draining the battery? If not, is it a problem with my alternator?
that is a test that was done years ago -
but i have read that it is not to be done now.
a surge may cause electrical problem
(just something i have read - anyone else heard of that).
but i have read that it is not to be done now.
a surge may cause electrical problem
(just something i have read - anyone else heard of that).
sounds like an internal short that is draining the battery.
could be the alt (if it is that), or could be a host of other things.
take the ground off of your battery and hook up a VOM meter.
make sure to set it to dc amps.
attach the red lead to the battery cable and the
black lead to the neg battery post (i think it is that way - but if wrong then it will
kick the meter neg and then you will know that it is wrong, then change them around).
so, this is set up in series. Observe the amp reading.
you are looking for about 200 to 500 milliamps (just
to give you an idea of where to set the meter).
but i have to admit that i do not know very much about the aftermarket
music stuff, so i dont know how many milliamps that should draw (in fact,
i dont know if it draws or not). someone will have to answer that before i know how many milliamps the meter should show.
after that, i can tell you what to do next.
could be the alt (if it is that), or could be a host of other things.
take the ground off of your battery and hook up a VOM meter.
make sure to set it to dc amps.
attach the red lead to the battery cable and the
black lead to the neg battery post (i think it is that way - but if wrong then it will
kick the meter neg and then you will know that it is wrong, then change them around).
so, this is set up in series. Observe the amp reading.
you are looking for about 200 to 500 milliamps (just
to give you an idea of where to set the meter).
but i have to admit that i do not know very much about the aftermarket
music stuff, so i dont know how many milliamps that should draw (in fact,
i dont know if it draws or not). someone will have to answer that before i know how many milliamps the meter should show.
after that, i can tell you what to do next.
Tried a few more times to jumpstart my car but still no success battery keeps dying. I've disconected my aftermarket speakers so that no longer is an issue. While I was driving after I jumped it volatge continualy dropped below 12volts shutting off my cd player every once in a while but the car stayed on. I'm going to try buying a new battery and see if that works.
It's pretty easy arithmetics. Your battery capacity is, say, 50 amps*hour. That means fully charged battery can provide you with one amp for 50 hours. Or 50 amps for 1 hour. If your dome light is 12 watts, it takes 1 amp at 12 volts. That means if you leave your dome light up for two days and do not drive your car during this time, your fully charged battery is dead. 500 milliamps drain, that fglaustin mentioned, will kill your battery in four days. If your battery is not fully charged, it happens much faster
Any time you drain your battery completely, you reduce its capacity. Based on what you said, it is probably around 10-15 amps*hours now. And it takes much more than 15 minutes drive to charge it completely, even to this reduced capacity.
And, if you are able to run your car after you jump started it, your alternator is just fine.
Any time you drain your battery completely, you reduce its capacity. Based on what you said, it is probably around 10-15 amps*hours now. And it takes much more than 15 minutes drive to charge it completely, even to this reduced capacity.And, if you are able to run your car after you jump started it, your alternator is just fine.
ORIGINAL: Crazed
Tried a few more times to jumpstart my car but still no success battery keeps dying. I've disconected my aftermarket speakers so that no longer is an issue. While I was driving after I jumped it volatge continualy dropped below 12volts shutting off my cd player every once in a while but the car stayed on. I'm going to try buying a new battery and see if that works.
Tried a few more times to jumpstart my car but still no success battery keeps dying. I've disconected my aftermarket speakers so that no longer is an issue. While I was driving after I jumped it volatge continualy dropped below 12volts shutting off my cd player every once in a while but the car stayed on. I'm going to try buying a new battery and see if that works.


