Engine health advice
I'm looking at the guide for my car. Under Standards and Service Limits, there's a section that says compression for the D16Y7 which is what I have. It says Minimum: 939 (9.5, 135) and Maximum variation: 200 (2.0, 28). Is this the right section and if so, what am I supposed to gather from this info? Thanks!
right, so what I see is as follows:
it is optimal to be at 184 psi but it can be as low as 135psi. but it should not vary more than 28 psi between the cylinders (I am assuming)
it is optimal to be at 184 psi but it can be as low as 135psi. but it should not vary more than 28 psi between the cylinders (I am assuming)
Last edited by mundy5; Jan 9, 2009 at 05:17 PM. Reason: added further clarification
I agree with mk378. There would not seem to be a good reason to compression test the cylinders unless dictated by a specific problem. If you can't find any specific problems with the Civic, then replace all of the fluids and do a basic tune up (replace plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor). In addition, does the CEL come ON for 2 seconds and then turn OFF when you turn the ignition key to ON(II)? Are any dash warning lights lit when the car is running?
Last edited by RonJ; Jan 10, 2009 at 08:57 AM.
Look at the picture next to my screen name. You should see a similar symbol light up for 2 seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON (II). If not, a previous owner may have disabled this important warning light/diagnosis system. Check whether the bulb was removed from the gauge assembly or whether the CEL wires were cut there or at the ECU. Also check whether fuse 47 (BACKUP) under the hood is blown or removed.
By the way, you should additionally see the charge light (battery symbol), SRS, oil pressure, and seat belt lights turn ON when the key is turned to ON(II).
By the way, you should additionally see the charge light (battery symbol), SRS, oil pressure, and seat belt lights turn ON when the key is turned to ON(II).
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