Please kept in mind this engine won't idle lower than 1000 rpms.
With engine cold @ 1100 - 1300 rpms:
high vac at IACV port.
" " " FITV port.

With engine hot @ 1100 - 1300 rpms:
high vac at IACV port ( shouldn't it be closed @ no engine load?)
LOW vac at FITV port ( shouldn't this be closed/0 vacuum? If there's any vacuum when HOT, isn't it leaking and defective?)

I did not block the idle screw circuit port. I'm saying that when the above two ports are blocked, the engine slows quickly and stops. If there were signifigant leaks, wouldn't the engine tend to run at a reduced speed? Maybe the idle screw circuit is partially or fully obscured by oily debris.

The butterfly valve and where it mates in the throttle body was cleaned before re-assembly. Cleaning was necessary because of a severe sticking problem.

Sunday I'll check the idle screw circuit, make sure its free flowing.

The IACV is still passing air when hot and connected or when hot and disconnected. Its passing air all the time. It seems the ECU is keeping it open, or its defective. I'm going to swap it out with another one I have.

Sunday.

 

I probably won't work on Cutie today. My fingers are numb from the cold and turning bluish. Bad circulation. I'll probably confine my activities to the shop.

 

I tried to drive around the block. The engine starts to stumble in each gear at about 2000-3000 rpms. Keep in mind the engine idles no lower than about 1100 rpms.

 

Terrible driving performance (such as refusing to rev past 3000 rpm) will occur when the timing belt is off by a tooth. Did you ever double check that?

 

It seems like weeks ago, I was hoping the belt was off by a tooth. I checked it, it was all too right. I have another symtom for your thoughts. The engine will not start unless the gas pedal is pumped once. The engine just turns, turns, and turns until the pedal is pushed once. Then it starts up fine. It started on the second / third turn before the headgasket blew, no pedal pump needed. Is it time to try a known good ECU? Let me know what to try next. Thanks mk378.

 

Update: When the engine is running, a slight muttering can be heard from exhaust system. I hope this is from a slightly rich air/fuel mixture. Please not a bad valve job. I know we arn't supposed to take apart factory set vavles. I just can't afford to buy one. I pulled off the end plate of the FICV. The plastic seat was very loose and could probably turn by itself easily. The sealing ring was not making any contact with the bore surface. I replaced the ring for a snug fit. The valve was reassembled and temp tested. The valve was not closing until 200 deg. I removed the plate and turned seat in one turn. Reassembled and tested again. Valve closed at 191 deg. I put it on the engine. Started the engine. My tach/dwell meter died so rpms are estimates. Fast idle(1700 rpms) for about 5 mins. Then over next 6 mins. rpms slowly drop to about 900 rpms. Another few mins rpms at maybe 800. I'm feeling a little optimistic. I plug the FICV port with my thumb, almost no vacuum. The cooling fan ran about 15 mins. later and there isn't any FIC port vacuum. Maybe the new seal and adjusment was a help. I sat there for about 5 mins. and listened to the engine idle slowly climb to about 1200 rpms and level off. At least there's no vacuum at the FICV port at operating temp. The jdle speed screw is turned out about 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn. If I turn the screw in all the way,maybe idle is reduced 100 rpms. The IACV is keeping the engine rpms up. I'm still thinking air bubbles in the coolant making the ecu think engine is cold. When engine is started cold (with radiator cap off or half turned) in less than 3 mins. coolant slowly rises up the rad. neck and starts to overlow. Is that about average normal operation for the cap off the rad.? The coolant reservoir is dropping some...maybe air working out of system and reservoir fluid drawn into system when engine is cooling? I'm still worried the head gasket is failing. I'll drop my pipeline cam down each spark plug hole and look. I'm scared to see green. I'll perform a compression check when I get an adapter for this plug thread size. Tell me if you think its not necessary at this point. Tell me what to test or inspect next. Ready and willing. I cannot give up.

 

I tried a short cut...twice. I bought a reman. ECU. The engine wouldn't start after I installed it. I checked for codes and the CEL just comes on, no blinks. I installed another reman ECU, same results. I'm starting over. Page 220 of the big service manual. Troubleshooting flowchart, engine won't start. I don't have an expensive test harness. I'll have to access terminals from the back of the connectors. Suggestions anyone?

 

With the jumper in place, and there are no codes, CEL is supposed to just come on and stay on when the key is turned on. If there are codes, it will blink out codes with the engine stopped or running.

Without the jumper in place, turn key on but don't crank, CEL should come on then go out.

 

I too had a high idle condition after replacing a head gasket. Turning in the guts of the FITV to almost bottom (I live in Dallas, it doesn't get too cold here) cured it. I still, to this day, have no idea why the replacement of the headgasket resulted in the cold idle fail. All I can deduce is that having the intake manifold off the car and moved around caused the wax innards to shift/finally fail. Note, my FITV was not completely disengaged inside, as others have noted on the forum, but it was loose and tightening solved the problem. It sounds as though you've gotten the car close to squared away now, and if anyone can help you it is MK.

Also, I had problems with early failing of the stock Honda headgasket. Here is my post on that subject:

"For all Civic engines, except VTEC, years 1988-1995, I found TSB #97-047. It basically says that the original head gaskets were weak and calls out a replacement part number as well as new head bolts to be used. This makes far more sense to me than any other scenario.

I had already ordered a head gasket set from my local Honda dealer, the same dealer as last time, and it included head gasket p/n 12251-PM5-S02, the faulty gasket. The new replacement per the TSB is p/n 12251-P01-004"

Keep an eye on yours. I hope that I didn't send you into a funk with this post, or unnecessary worry, as your headgasket may last forever. I just wanted you to be aware.

Good luck,

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

 

Thanks mk, what you posted is what is occuring now. I'm sorry for trying your patience. It's not purposeful. I am a great deal better at real-time conversing. Posting is relatively new for me...I'm not too good with letter writing either. I do have a new woe for you. At about 2:30 p.m. today, I started the engine. I hooked up a timing light. Just for grins I wanted to see the cold engine timing while I was waiting for engine warm-up. The timing wasn't too far from the red lines. What I saw next was disturbing. The marks would dissapeer and reappeer about every 4-5 seconds. I just put the light down and leaned back in my wheelchair. The engine finally warmed up. With the jumper now in place I aimed the light again at the pulley. The marks were gone...totally! But I found them. They are at the 6 o'clock position on the pulley. Facing down towards the ground. I havn't calmed down enough to think this through. I'm usually awake til' 2:00 a.m. most nights and up by dawn. I'll check back for posts until sleepy time. Thanks again.