Like the title states, how do i remove them. i bought a reverse electroluminescent gauge faces from a guy for 10 bucks and i want to install them but i can't remove the needles, so the gauge faces can't be removed either, so it seems. there appears to be no room to slip the needles through the faces. anyone have any tips. BTW car is a 97 EX/auto.

 

That is weird almost all the gauges have a hole so the needle can slide right through..But don't remove the needles or you will screw up the gauges..Never seen something like this before.

 

ya theirs NO WAY TO REMOVE THE NEEDLES...... and if you move them to much..... well SNAP-------


no good no more!
be very carefull when puting on the temp/gas gauge section because those snap super easy! just remember you can bend the new overlay all over and it will probably be fine, BUT if ya move the needle JUST VERLY........ SNAP.....
and get ready to spend some money on a new cluster!

 

sorry about the confusion. I asked the question due to the instructions that came with the kit and they were in terrible broken english, here is a sample:

"remove the screws on the instrumentsand install the panel of EL dashboard. Please note that during installation, do not remove the pointers of the instrumants. just thread the pointers through the pin holes of the dashboard very than, move the EL panel to hole position of the original panel for sign (wtf?) If you intend to mae the glow instrumants of you loved car to be more bright, just coat coating material above on the pointers. Ln this way, the color of the pointers of instruments can well be matched with color of cold light instruments"

that was just one step of the instructions. i just tore it apart and figured it out myself. turned out pretty good but i have to find a place to mount the controls for it tomorrow. right now it's all out in the open and the cluster isn't screwed in. I'm very happy with the light output (way too bright on the high setting) especially considering i only paid ten bucks for them.

 

Yeah glad they got to you before you tried taking the needles out, i learned that the hard way

 

+1.

Removing hte cluster is pretty easy though, 2 bolts in the gauge bezel, 4 around hte outside of the cluster, unplug 3 harnsses and you're good. Don't expect those $10 guages to last long, might burnt out just a few months after i got them. CUSTOM LED STRIPS FROM OZNIUM FTW

 

they are more expensive than that but i bought them for 10 bucks off of a guy. he bought them for his civic but found a new project before he could install them. that's where i got my spare Y7 manifold and TB and soon a spare Y8 manifold, head, vtec solenoid, ecm... hopefully it will last even a week, i don't care as long as i get my 10 dollars out of it.

I knew not to remove the needles, but i didn't notice that these gauges were just overlays and had to rested on top of the stock gauge face. i was wondering how do you get the face out if you can't remove the needle.

by the time i read the first reply i was done, so it was kinda pointless to even start the thread. i should have just waited lol.

 

Man...I apologize for the previous a$$holish response, i must've been having a bad day, anyway i went and picked up the gf a digital camera (now that i have money i owed her a real valentines day gift lol) but i secretly wanted one for myself too, so it works out. but here is some pics of the installed gauges for those curious. They are not bad for $10 bucks, it is something i wouldn't have paid full price for but i'm glad i bought them:







The only problem is the cutout for the odometer was a bit too small and you can't read the numbers properly but i don't care. and my fuel sending unit is messed up and my gas gauge always reads full, thank god for the low fuel warning light lol.

 

woops. ya bent the gas gauge needle. thats the main reason i didnt want to even try overlays.

 

It's been like that even before i got the car. the previous owner said he was running it like that for a few months before i even got my hands on it. And the reason it's so far up is because of the magnetic pull of the constant voltage circuit in the gauge assembly. it always has voltage and depending on what reading your sending unit gives you it will pull against it in the opposite direction (electro-magnetic forces) to give you a reading. so if your vehicle is full you get no voltage from the sending unit and empty will have an overpowering voltage to pull it down to the empty mark. thats a terrible way to explain it, but i am tired lol.