I have a honda civic ex 96 it is usually very fast looks nice and sounds nice but about a week ago it started acting up and i could rarely get it started and when i did it would only run for about 30 min. now it wont start at all... im not sure if i need a new timing belt or possibly new motor mounts if someone would like to help a guy out message me and i will send you pictures of it... PLEASE!!!!

 

Check for spark by taking one of the spark plug wires out and connecting it to a spare plug, hold the wire so the side of the plug is touching the engine, and crank. Runs for a while then stops suddenly, won't restart until cooled off-- is often the ignition control module. Now that it's fully dead you could take the module out and have it tested.

 

Stan-

I concur with mk378, test your ignition control module to determine whether or not it's bad. Here's the proper procedure for testing the module:


**distributor diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com

Make sure to note the position of the ignition wires on the distributor cap. Use a piece of paper and note the wire locations and connections, or carefully mark the wires before removing them. Failure to reinstall the wires correctly could cause expensive component failure.

1) Remove the distributor cap

2) Remove the black/yellow, blue(1), yellow/green, and the blue(2) wires from the ICM (Ignition Control Module)

3) Remove the wires from the ICM

4) With the ignition switch on, check for battery voltage between the black/yellow and ground. If voltage is present, proceed with testing. If no voltage is present check for an open circuit between the wire and the ignition switch.

5) With the ignition switch on, check for battery voltage between the green (white/black on the F22B1 engine) ground. If voltage is present, go to the next step. If no voltage is present, check the ignition coil and the green or white/black wire between the ICM and the coil.

6) Disconnect the electrical multi-connector at the Engine Control

7) Module/Powertrain Control Module ECM/PCM and check for continuity on the yellow/green wire between the multi-connector and the yellow/green wire at the ICM. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for an open circuit in the yellow/green wire circuit. Check for continuity between the yellow/green wire and ground. There should be no continuity. If there is continuity to ground, locate where the yellow/green wire is shorted to ground, and repair. Reconnect the ECM/PCM multi-connector.

8) Detach the connector from the gauge assembly and check for continuity on the blue wire between the ICM and the tachometer. There should be continuity here!

9) If all the test conditions are passed, replace the ICM.

 

Thank you guys i will try this stuff out this weekend and let you know if it helps at all