Background:
It's a 1993 Honda Del Sol Si with a Phearable.net chipped ECU (stock redline/vtec). Engine related mods are just I/H/E and a high-flow cat.

So, I went to check/adjust my ignition timing. I contacted Phearable, and they said just to do it like I would with a regular ECU. So I started the engine, let it warm all the way up, turned it off, jumped the service connector, turned it on, CEL came on like it should, let the idle stabilize, and performed the adjustment. Adjustment actually turned out real good, pretty much dead on the middle mark. I tightened the bolts, checked it again, and it was still good. Turned the car off, removed the jumper, all standard procedure.
Then, when I went to start the car back up, the CEL was still there. So I let it sit a couple minutes, and it didn't go away. Turned off the car, and restarted it, same problem.
So then I reset the ECU. I turned it back on, no more CEL. I let it idle for 5 minutes, then took it for a spin. Everything seems to be running fine, and the CEL stayed off.

Do you guys think it's fine and the CEL just for no reason stuck around too long?

 

Don't think twice about it unless the CEL returns.

 

Alright, I was hoping you'd say that. I was thinking the same thing, but wanted a second opinion to make sure I didn't make a foolish mistake in ignoring it.

 

Update:

Alright so this morning, CEL was on. I left the car in the driveway and went and skated, but I was riding with a friend in his car so no biggie. I didn't drive it with the CEL.

So, after I got back, I start the car. No more CEL. So then I think... I tap the ECU area, and the CEL turns on. Engine starts idling horribly. So I turn off the car, and turn it back on, and the CEL is gone. I tap the ECU, CEL comes back. I can't pull the code because every time I start the car the CEL is gone, and the CEL won't come on when tapping unless the car is all the way on.

So anyway, I think it's just a bad solder joint from when I socketed the ECU. I'm gonna go back over my soldering and touch it up, and i'll see what happens.
I'll post after that, which should be sometime this evening.

 

Alright, after an hour of brain surgery, the ECU's solder joints I messed with are strong and fully functional. Check engine light is completely gone, and I can literally kick the ECU and the CEL won't come on.

I actually noticed that the jumper I installed at J1 was loose. This jumper basically from what I understand tells the ECU to read from the EPROM chip that was installed. There were also a few loose solder joints on the EPROM chip's socket to the board. At one spot, the actual circuitry on the board had come up, and to fix it I had to gettho-rig a wire to basically connect those two solder joints together as they would have been by the circuitry.

My theory:
The loose jumper (J1) was making not making connection before (CEL off), but when tapped on, it made connection (CEL comes on). The loose solder joints connecting the EPROM socket to the circuit board were causing the ECU to light the CEL because of the error associated with the little or no contact that was between some of the socket pins and the board. This would mean that before tonight's ECU repairing that I did, the chip was never actually functioning. This is backed up by the fact that I contacted Phearable to ask what they set my VTEC point at (I told them to do it as they see fit) and they told me 5000RPM. Well, before tonight, my VTEC light that I installed was coming on at the stock point, 4800RPM. Now, it lights up at 5000RPM, and there is no CEL. This would lead me to believe that the chip is now functioning without a doubt, and there is no CEL so it's fine. Also, since I can't cause the CEL to light up by messing with the ECU, I think all the solder joints are fine now. Also, ignition timing is still dead-on like I set it the other day.


Ghetto-rigging: