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Im pretty sure I'm screwed but...

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  #11  
Old 04-27-2010, 10:12 AM
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The crank bolt is in the center of the large pulley on the bottom end of the engine which drives the belts for the alternator, etc. It's easiest to reach from underneath, maybe even take the left front wheel off.
 
  #12  
Old 04-27-2010, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RonJ
The top of each fuse has two small metal test tabs for you voltmeter. Both tabs at the top of hood fuses should have battery voltage to body ground. The same is true for dash fuses when the key is in ON(II). The test is done with the fuse installed.

If a fuse has voltage on one tab but not the other, then the fuse is bad. If neither test tab has voltage, then the fuse does not receive power. Post your results.
I think i got it. Now how do i check the starter terminals? What about the Coil Pack in the dsitributor? I am assuming we start with fuses first then work our way up?
 

Last edited by grafix; 04-27-2010 at 05:00 PM.
  #13  
Old 04-27-2010, 06:51 PM
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so i tried turning the engine manually... I guess there is a hole through the drip shield right where you need to put the socket. No movement. I assume its supposedly supposed to be extremely easy to move.
 
  #14  
Old 04-27-2010, 07:18 PM
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The car must of course be in neutral if it's a manual. A good engine is not "extremely easy," but you should be able to turn it without undue force on a typical socket wrench. I suggest remove the spark plugs again and then try turning by hand. If it still won't move, the engine is toast (though before finally concluding that, take the belts off to be sure it's not a stuck alternator or something). If it just had more water in the cylinders, may still be OK. Also loosen the oil drain plug and if water (not oil) comes out, drain and refill with new oil before trying to start again.
 
  #15  
Old 04-27-2010, 10:44 PM
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would me having an extension on the socket make it more difficult to turn? I did not take off the the drip guard so i could not get really close to it. I will do what you told me tho, I will take out the plugs again and drop this drip guard and try and get real close to it.

Thanks for keeping the hope alive. I am still hoping its just electrical and it is just the distributor cap or something. That would be nice wouldnt it
 
  #16  
Old 04-28-2010, 07:21 AM
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Any more info? You said the tunnel was flooded. Define flooded. Two feet, 5 feet? Did the water go to the top of your hood or stay lower? Do you have a stock intake or an aftermarket intake? Was the water high enough to get water into the cabin and on your floors?
 
  #17  
Old 04-28-2010, 09:26 AM
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It was probably id say about a 2 and a half feet deep at the deepest point. Where I went through was probably about 8-10". I have a ghetto rigged ram air intake that was on the car when my gf purchased it. There is also a big *** aftermarket muffler on it. I do not think its a full exhaust system. So yeah I would say the water was up to the bottom of the doors. but the cabin floor was not wet.
 
  #18  
Old 04-28-2010, 10:05 AM
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i have put many engines under water i 4x4 alot.

yes using extentions makes a huge difference you want to none or lease as possible.
is your car 5 speed or auto?
remove plugs and try to turn motor over to blow out all the water do this for at least around a min.
then put plugs back in and start.
open your distributor and check for moisture.
 
  #19  
Old 04-28-2010, 11:57 AM
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5 speed

Open distributor you mean the cap or the actual distributor? I checked the cap and rotor for moisture..there was none. Its not sparking so i wonder if the coil pack in the distributor got ruined.
 
  #20  
Old 04-28-2010, 01:29 PM
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Did you check for blown fuses in the hood and dash fuse boxes?
 


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