knock.ELD.VTEC CEL codes.
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HCF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 859
From: London, Ont.
knock.ELD.VTEC CEL codes.
to make a long story short, i installed some lowering springs/shocks on all corners. once we were done, fired the car up, and these three CEL lights came on, they weren't there before. knock sensor, ELD code and the VTEC code. ELD code has been there for awhile in the background. I haven't really found much info on what it does or how to remedy the CEL, it never stays on so i don't worry about it.
i know VTEC worked before we changed the springs so i don't know why the CEL came on. VTEC has always worked. I've tried clearing the codes, in the both ways that i know how, pulling the backup fuse and the ECU fuse. codes still came back. In the earlier days when this problem came up, when i turned off the car and turned it back on, the CEL would go away. recently it now stays on. i have replaced the knock sensor, and the wiring seems ok. i know i don't have an engine knock (95% sure) had a couple people listen and we don't hear any distinct knocking.
is it possible that my timing might cause this issue or if there all related? i hate driving with a CEL. what other things should i check?
by the way the engine is h22.
i know VTEC worked before we changed the springs so i don't know why the CEL came on. VTEC has always worked. I've tried clearing the codes, in the both ways that i know how, pulling the backup fuse and the ECU fuse. codes still came back. In the earlier days when this problem came up, when i turned off the car and turned it back on, the CEL would go away. recently it now stays on. i have replaced the knock sensor, and the wiring seems ok. i know i don't have an engine knock (95% sure) had a couple people listen and we don't hear any distinct knocking.
is it possible that my timing might cause this issue or if there all related? i hate driving with a CEL. what other things should i check?
by the way the engine is h22.
HCF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 101
From: Tallahassee FL
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
23 Knock sensor
which you already know...I'm assuming your ELD is bad. Unless you were monkying around with the wiring. You will have to get a whole new fuse box since the part is not sold separately if you want to try and replace your ELD. I say pnp or jy time..From some of the reading I have been doing when the ELD starts going bad it can under power things...since your also getting code 21 sounds like it could fix...cus if the solenoid isn’t getting the required voltage then it's obviously going to fail and pop a CEL not enough voltage to create the oil pressure to lock up vtec.
I'm kinda stumped too cus I don't see how installing struts and springs will cause this to happen.
sorry I can't help out more.
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
23 Knock sensor
which you already know...I'm assuming your ELD is bad. Unless you were monkying around with the wiring. You will have to get a whole new fuse box since the part is not sold separately if you want to try and replace your ELD. I say pnp or jy time..From some of the reading I have been doing when the ELD starts going bad it can under power things...since your also getting code 21 sounds like it could fix...cus if the solenoid isn’t getting the required voltage then it's obviously going to fail and pop a CEL not enough voltage to create the oil pressure to lock up vtec.
I'm kinda stumped too cus I don't see how installing struts and springs will cause this to happen.
If you still have your original Accord ECU you could plug it in. Turn your key to the on position (engine not running) and see if the same codes come up. If they do then you should look into getting a manual so as to test the ELD, MAP and connection between the distributor and gauge cluster (speedo). Then try starting the car with the Accord ECU. It won't hurt your engine to have the 2.2L Non VTEC ECU start you H22.
If the codes don't come up after starting the car you should look into checking out the P13 ECU.
Do you have the manuals for the 93 Prelude and 94-97 Accord?
If the codes don't come up after starting the car you should look into checking out the P13 ECU.
Do you have the manuals for the 93 Prelude and 94-97 Accord?
Recognized HCF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
Could be loose wires under the hood, in particular the grounds. Always when there is more than one code, reset ECU then drive until the CEL comes on again, and pull codes again. See which code reoccurs first or more often. ELD code is very often spurious. Don't worry about it much. The knock sensor is very simple, it's just one wire to the sensor. Apparently if you ground that wire the ECU will stay happy and not throw code, but of course you have no protection against knocking. So do that only as a test, if the knock sensor code quits, replace sensor.
Thread Starter
|
HCF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 859
From: London, Ont.
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
23 Knock sensor
which you already know...I'm assuming your ELD is bad. Unless you were monkying around with the wiring. You will have to get a whole new fuse box since the part is not sold separately if you want to try and replace your ELD. I say pnp or jy time..From some of the reading I have been doing when the ELD starts going bad it can under power things...since your also getting code 21 sounds like it could fix...cus if the solenoid isn’t getting the required voltage then it's obviously going to fail and pop a CEL not enough voltage to create the oil pressure to lock up vtec.
I'm kinda stumped too cus I don't see how installing struts and springs will cause this to happen.
sorry I can't help out more.
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
23 Knock sensor
which you already know...I'm assuming your ELD is bad. Unless you were monkying around with the wiring. You will have to get a whole new fuse box since the part is not sold separately if you want to try and replace your ELD. I say pnp or jy time..From some of the reading I have been doing when the ELD starts going bad it can under power things...since your also getting code 21 sounds like it could fix...cus if the solenoid isn’t getting the required voltage then it's obviously going to fail and pop a CEL not enough voltage to create the oil pressure to lock up vtec.
I'm kinda stumped too cus I don't see how installing struts and springs will cause this to happen.
sorry I can't help out more.
Could be loose wires under the hood, in particular the grounds. Always when there is more than one code, reset ECU then drive until the CEL comes on again, and pull codes again. See which code reoccurs first or more often. ELD code is very often spurious. Don't worry about it much. The knock sensor is very simple, it's just one wire to the sensor. Apparently if you ground that wire the ECU will stay happy and not throw code, but of course you have no protection against knocking. So do that only as a test, if the knock sensor code quits, replace sensor.
resetting the ecu, i have reset the ecu, i have tried that many times, i reset the codes, and as soon as i turn the car on, the codes show up right away. the same three. unless there is a certain trick to clear the codes i pull the back up fuse like the manual tells me to.
thanks for the help, i will report back with my progress.
HCF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 101
From: Tallahassee FL
the way I reset any honda ecu is...I disconnect the bat. Touch the pos and neg bat terminals together for 60sec. Pull you ECU fuse AFTER touching terminals 2geather. Let the bat. and fuse be unplugged for at least a hr....I know this sounds dumb but it works...very good at that. Make sure even if your CEL pops you let the engine FULLY warm up and don't touch the pedal let the engine warm up on it's own until your fan kicks on. Now if you CEL pops then it has to be your ELC or a ground issue. You said it comes on as as you turn the car on...Now I'm leaning towards grounded out or unplugged sensor now that I think about it. b/c bad sensor the CEL won’t pop as soon as you start the car. It will take a min or 2 be4 popping. But still don't rule out the ELC. I would check all your connections be4 getting a whole new fuse box...and yes I believe you need the WHOLE fuse box
Last edited by flcb7; Sep 14, 2010 at 02:14 PM.
Thread Starter
|
HCF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 859
From: London, Ont.
the way I reset any honda ecu is...I disconnect the bat. Touch the pos and neg bat terminals together for 60sec. Pull you ECU fuse AFTER touching terminals 2geather. Let the bat. and fuse be unplugged for at least a hr....I know this sounds dumb but it works...very good at that. Make sure even if your CEL pops you let the engine FULLY warm up and don't touch the pedal let the engine warm up on it's own until your fan kicks on. Now if you CEL pops then it has to be your ELC or a ground issue. You said it comes on as as you turn the car on...Now I'm leaning towards grounded out or unplugged sensor now that I think about it. b/c bad sensor the CEL won’t pop as soon as you start the car. It will take a min or 2 be4 popping. But still don't rule out the ELC. I would check all your connections be4 getting a whole new fuse box...and yes I believe you need the WHOLE fuse box
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