Seems like you are only hearing what you wanna hear lol. i just replaced my distributor a week ago. a WEEK AGO. Listen to these guys they are pros, test your icm and coil!!! and then, when you realize thats the problem replace the whole distributor because you can get a brand new full unit for $140 (otherwise individual parts (i.e. ICM, coil, etc.) cost about $100 a piece, and a new coil would probably kill your ICM and vice versa).

Its frustrating because sometimes people just want to take the easy way out, i just hope you can get back on the road soon :/ Good luck!

 

the igniter has to ground to frame properly to function.the ground coming out of the distributor 9 times out of 10 goes directly to the bundle grounded right next to the water inlet.all generations of civics are slightly different but still if the ground coming off the distributor isn't making good contact it will not work properly. all I'm saying is it's good practice to check that first to make sure any results you get while testing other possible causes are accurate ; and it's an easy check with or without a voltmeter.

 

Well Maybe it will help if u tell us exactly what happened before it died out (detective mode) to the T please.

 

d16soda
i don't understand what you have against me checking my grounds? haha
if it need to replace my distributor i will...
it i don't because it's the ground.....
then.....
i'm not going to spend 140 dollars replacing parts that aren't broken.....

 

Seriously, you have to do some troubleshooting and information gathering in order to pinpoint the problem. Otherwise, you are left guessing the problem and replacing parts at random. This becomes expensive and time consuming.

Answer these questions if you soon wish to solve your problem:

1) Have you yet checked for spark at all four plugs using the method described at the link in my signature?

2) Do you hear the fuel pump prime when the key is turned to ON(II)?

3) Have you checked for CEL codes? Click CEL link in my signature.

4) Has the timing belt snapped?

 

I prefer to test a non-starting car systematically. Going in with assumptions about what the problem must be, tends to cause the real problem to be overlooked.

 

Well, i got nothing against it. Just, RonJ let you know if what you are experiencing is true, then the engine grounds are OK. I just went through all of this, we are just telling you to test the icm and coil lol. Just tryin to help you get on the road faster bro.

 

Well looking into the past, helps nerrow out the future.

 

Not to jump in but I am having the same problem with my 2000 civic ex d16y8. I just rebuilt the motor and it started up just fine and I let it run for about a minute and then I shut it off. About an hour later i went to got start it up again and it just fire up. No spark. the ICM and Coil are changed already. the ground looks fine on the water outlet and the fuel pump is priming. I dont know if it could still be the main relay since the fuel pump is priming. I also notice that the CEL is not coming on at all, which is even stranger because before i rebuilt it I could not get it to turn off. Ive never had a hot start problem before and dont think thats the issue but could use some help as well. and also the timing belt is new and so is the cap and rotor.

 

Oh and the coil dosent have to be in the car when testing it because its resistance right? I tested my old one and got 0 ohms between the 1 and 2 terminals and about 14.5 between the coiled and #1 terminal. between 1 and 2 its supposed to be .6-.8 but i got 0 on the old and new one. is it possible its a bad coil?