i just finished the mini-me swap. so i go and try to start it and it turns over like it normally would but it won't start. i did the obd0 to obd1 conversion. i have a 90 crx si by the way. i put the obd1 distributor on with obd0 plugs. i think the problem might be with the wires. i found a lot of people who used the obd0 plugs on the obd1 distributor, but the write ups aren't right. all the wires are the same color except the obd0 end has 2 white wires. BOTH ARE EXACTLY THE SAME SIZE. i compared them ridiculously and had 3 other people give me their opinions. they are in fact the same size. so i found a forum post (can't find it now though) that someone has the pin-outs and colors and matched them up that way. i figured if someone took the time to do a pin out of both plugs and what they do, that they were right. has anyone out there messed up the 2 white wires? does this sound like that problem? oh, one of the white wires had a piece of small red electrical tape on it right where it plugs into the obd0 connector.

i made sure the timing belt timing was right too. the distributor timing might be off, but that shouldn't stop it from starting up right? and i'm almost positive that i put it back in right. anyone have any ideas? how is the timing supposed to be set for the mini me swap because i have yet to find a write up on it that actually tells you. i matched the crank pulley line where it was supposed to be for TDC and i found the manual for the 93 del sol si (the head i have) and lined the head up to where that was supposed to be and put everything back on making sure that they were still in the same spot after the belt went back on. any opinions out there? any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Unless you already know absolutely that wiring incompatibility is the root of your problem, start with the basics -- check for spark at the plugs and listen for the brief priming of the fuel pump. Then go from there.

 

well i didn't get a chance to check the spark because it started down pouring, but i definitely heard the pump turn on. it did take a long time to prime, but that could have been just because the fuel rail was taken off and everything. i'll check the spark when i get home from work. i have a feeling it's the 2 damn white wires are reversed. they said in on of the write ups that it won't work if you switched them. so maybe i'll try de-pinning the 2 white wires and switching them too.

if anyone has any other ideas, please let me know. i want to start driving my crx again. i have a nissan xterra that gets 16 mpg on a good day!

 

If you lack spark at the plugs, as seems likely, then check whether the distributor is receiving battery voltage with the ignition key turned ON. If not, check for blown fuses in both the under-hood and -dash fuse boxes. Also check that all ground wires are properly reattached. Nonetheless, I agree that the two white wires deserve attention.

 

there's no spark on any of the plugs. i switched the 2 white wires and still no spark. it turns over very strong though. like it has brand new everything. the ignition coil on the dizzy did seem to be hot after i tried to start it. the cap and rotor look to be in decent condition. i didn't notice any wear or corrosion at all. but i don't have a garage and this damn rain isn't helping me any [:@]

 

The first picture below shows how to test the coil using a multimeter.

Next, use the circuit diagram to compare wiring of the stock distributor to that of your distributor. Also check whether you have battery voltage at the BLK/YEL wire when the ignition key is turned to ON.

 

well, i went through the crx manual and found the distributor circuit diagram, and i looked at the del sol distributor diagram, and this is what i found.

del sol diagram:


crx diagram:



after looking at the 2, i noticed that the conversion that boomslang (or whatever it's called) has it wrong. the colors are the same but what they connect to are different.

so this is what it's supposed to be:



so this is the diagram i came up with. the colors are the same, but they don't CONNECT to the same sensors! i'm gonna check if this is right tonight when i get home from work, but i believe this will solve my problem. hopefully [sm=smiley20.gif]

 

Good luck. My concern is that switching the white wires may have damaged something in the distributor, like the coil, igniter, or one of the sensors. I hope that I'm wrong on this account.

 

well, i was messing around with the crx again last night. i swapped out the spark plugs with iridium tipped plugs i had from my old head. i re-pinned the distributor connector to how it's supposed to be, and now i'm getting a good spark. the car almost sounds like it's about to start but won't. so i went and rechecked the timing. it looks like the timing belt is off by about ½ of a tooth. i don't know if that might be the problem or not. i can't seem to find a clear answer on this. i have the stock d16a6 block, and i'm using the timing belt for the d16z6 head. it's really a pain in the *** to put on, but i can manage to get it on there. so the vx timing belt is out of the question. it has 103 teeth i believe. the z6 has 104 (which i'm using). and the b7 has 107. i looked at the stock a6 timing belt and it looks like it's off by the same amount. does anyone know what timing belt would fix it? i really don't want to have to by an adjustable cam gear. or if anyone did the swap, can you send me in a picture where the timing for the cam gear is supposed to be. right now it's where it looks like it's supposed to be for the stock z6 engine. but maybe i'm a little off.

but i have spark now. so the dizzy and the ignition coil and sensors are still good. if the sensors were bad, it wouldn't get any spark. hence why i didn't get it before. this swap is just turning out to be a pain in the ***! i'm about ready to say screw it and go back to the original head lol.

but again, any help or any ideas would be great!

 

well, this morning i decided to take another crack at fixing my crx. so i re-did the timing. i checked the torque on the head bolts. checked all the hoses/vacuum lines/ground-dizzy-vtec wires, and everything looks good. i'm getting good spark. the battery was just charged. the distributor is wired up correctly. i have good spark plugs and wires. so why isn't it starting. i did the jumper harness test, and this is where i came up with the possible solution. it threw a code. CEL #19. this confused the hell out of me though. i have a p28-a02. code #19 is for the automatic transmission gear lock solenoid/valve. i don't have an automatic ecu though. so i popped the thing open and WHA-LA! sure enough it says "37820-p28-a52" on the inside! the ******* i bought it from must have swapped cases or stickers or something. but you can easily turn an auto ecu into a manual ecu. i found out how so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. i'm gonna see if this fixes the problem. if it isn't the problem, i don't have a clue on what it is and i'll swap heads again and go back to the stock non-vtec head.

if anyone has any ideas, i'll gladly take them into consideration

the timing is good
there's good spark at the plugs
the engine turns over fine, like it should when it starts
there's plenty of fuel going into each cylinder (there's gas on the plugs after trying to start it)

it just won't start! it turns over, sounds like it'll start, but just doesn't! so any ideas other than the auto ecu problem (which i'm going to hopefully fix tonight), i'm all ears.