OK, I'm starting to have fuel pump problems again.

Back in May I was having problems getting the fuel pump to operate. I would stick the key in, turn it twice, and it would never go. I tried resoldering the main relay, but that didn't work, so I bought another main relay and that didn't work either. I ended up buying a new fuel pump, and it seemed to work somewhat. I still had to wait about five minutes, but it would eventually go.

Now I'm having problems getting it to go at all. I have to leave the key in my car 20 to 30 minutes for it to go, if it will at all. The only thing I can think that would cause this would be bad wiring between the main relay and the fuel pump. I'm going to go rip out the back seat right now and see if the sucker is getting any power right now, but I was wondering what else could be the problem.

 

Have you already cleaned and tightened the G101 ground attached to the thermostat housing?

When you turn the key to ON(II), do all the dash warning lights illuminate brightly as expected and only the fuel pump fails to prime?

Do you also lack spark until the fuel pump primes?

Any CEL codes?

Have you tried swapping in a known good ECU?

 

1. No, where is the thermostat housing?

2. Yes, and once the fuel pump primes, all the lights dim until it is finished.

3. Starter goes.

4. Haven't checked, do I need a code reader? The light is on till it primes though.

5. No. I've looked at a local junk yard, but all hondas there are stripped down to the frame.

 

Thermostat housing is where the big hose from the bottom of the radiator connects to the engine.

Pull the brake handle up, the BRAKE light should stay on while cranking the engine. If you turn the key on but don't start, the CEL should come on for 2 seconds and go out, all the other lights (oil battery and brake) should stay on bright. Lights should not dim except when cranking.

Definitely check for spark when it is not willing to start. Also check for power going to fuel pump, and the fuel pump ground under the back seat.

 

1.



2. The dimming of the lights suggests a power problem. What voltage do you measure across the two battery posts? In ON(III), does the starter labor to crank the engine?

3. You didn't answer the question. Have you checked for spark at the plugs when the fuel pump won't prime?

4. You can't use an OBDII code reader on an OBDI car. Click the CEL link in my signature. The fact that the CEL remains on steady until the fuel pump primes tells you that the ECU has a power or ground problem, or the ECU itself is bad.

 

Its not flashing at all. Does that mean the ECU is toast?

 

OK, I did a quick search, and it said for code zero (I'm assuming that means no flashes) It means a faulty PCM (Which I believe is a Powertrain Control Module). Is it possible that could be causing my problem?

 

If your ECU is (probably) OK, these two things will happen:

In normal operation, when you turn the key on but don't start, the CEL will come on for 2 seconds and go out.
When you put the test jumper in, turn the key on but don't start, the CEL will come on steady.

 

Its steady no matter whether the jumper is in or not, until the fuel pump primes anyway.

 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RonJ

The fact that the CEL remains on steady until the fuel pump primes tells you that the ECU has a power or ground problem, or the ECU itself is bad.