i did disconnected the new one just now at normal temp and it started that fluctuating again up and down over and over ,.................just cover the gasket area on the t/b?

 

This suggests that you have an air leak.

Now use your finger to cover the hole/port inside the TB that leads to the disconnected IACV. Does this stop the idle fluctuation?

Also cover the entire top of the TB with your hand. Does this kill the engine?

 

ok so i took it for a drive and came back and let it run for about 5-6 minutes and the cel has not came back on yet but when i come to a stop the rpms drop to 4-500 ish ,...i still got to do the idle screw just seen you posted again and figure id try that first ,.......so i need to take the air tube from the air box off ?? and by the top you mean the round end right ?? thanks for being patient with me i just dont know to much about this stuff i do appreciate it alot.

 

ok so it did stop fluctuation and yes i placed my hand over the round end and it killed the engine ,.....vacuum leak ??

 

ok on the idle screw what does it mean 750+50 ? i may try this ....unless you guys think its a vacuum leak.????

 

Did you do the finger test with or without the IACV unplugged?

 

First, you need an accurate tach to adjust the idle speed. The dash tach is inaccurate in the low rpm range. 750+/-50 means that the acceptable idle speed range is 700-800 rpm.

 

I did this with it unpluged

 

I guess I probably need to buy some more tools or take it some where and have them adjust the idle screw.......

 

My OBDII scan tool reads engine rpms. Maybe you can borrow one from an auto parts store.