Oil Change
I have a 99 Civic with 100,400 miles on it and was wondering if I should use plain old oil or use synthetic. I am the 2nd owner and have put 400 miles since buying it. Also, what other maintence does anyone else recomend I do?
Thanks.
Thanks.
100% synthetic 5W-30 is best. At Walmart, I found 5-quart jugs that are very reasonably priced.
It's time for you to change the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and all three drive belts.
Also drain and replace the transmission fluid, coolant, power steering, clutch, and brake fluids.
Is the CEL ON?
It's time for you to change the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and all three drive belts.
Also drain and replace the transmission fluid, coolant, power steering, clutch, and brake fluids.
Is the CEL ON?
100k miles is rather young for a Civic engine so, if it is currently in good shape, keep in that way by using 100% synthetic motor oil.
Good. Does the CEL work?
At Honda, probably $550-600. Less at a local mechanic (choose wisely). Much less if you can do it yourself.
CEL= CHECK ENGINE LIGHT? Not on.
What can I look to pay to have timing belt, water pump 3 belts changed
All good advise, BUT, if it were me I would forget the syntheic, use a good dino 5/30 (name brand) change it and the filter every 3k. At only 100k I would forget the timing belt, (I know the book says 110k (or so) you should easly get 150/160k, (or more) forget the tranny fluid, but if you insist, (I wouldn't know why) it is an easy change, just dump and fill, I do not think there is a filter to mess with, If it were me I would just check it and if it is full, forget it, a quick look at the belts should tell if they need replacing, (and I haven't looked) but I'll bet they are fine.
at 100k your honda is just warming up, unless it has been beat to a pulp, but if you bought it in pretty good shape about the only thing to worry about is tires. JMOP msn after thought, you might need a battery
at 100k your honda is just warming up, unless it has been beat to a pulp, but if you bought it in pretty good shape about the only thing to worry about is tires. JMOP msn after thought, you might need a battery
Last edited by msnden; Sep 18, 2008 at 03:37 PM.
synthetic 5w-30 oil
if you live in temps that never get as cold as 20, then use 10w-30
replace the tranny fluid with honda transmission fluid
you'll need 2 quarts for a manual
2.9 quarts for an automatic. make sure you get the honda fluid that corresponds to your transmission
Walmart synthetic oil is pretty low on that oil quality list that forty04 posted
Might as well spend a little more change for Mobil1 or quakerstate synthetic.
So basically you're advising him to neglect his engine
first of all, synthetic oil technology is way better than it used to be. synthetic oil nowadays is FAR superior to dino oil.
I advise a good brand synthetic oil and a purolator gold filter or better (don't get FRAM!)
Forget the timing belt at 100K? It's recommended to be changed at 105K... 150K is horrible advice for changing a timing belt.
Also, it's a good idea to change the transmission fluid.
if you live in temps that never get as cold as 20, then use 10w-30
replace the tranny fluid with honda transmission fluid
you'll need 2 quarts for a manual
2.9 quarts for an automatic. make sure you get the honda fluid that corresponds to your transmission
Might as well spend a little more change for Mobil1 or quakerstate synthetic.
All good advise, BUT, if it were me I would forget the syntheic, use a good dino 5/30 (name brand) change it and the filter every 3k. At only 100k I would forget the timing belt, (I know the book says 110k (or so) you should easly get 150/160k, (or more) forget the tranny fluid, but if you insist, (I wouldn't know why) it is an easy change, just dump and fill, I do not think there is a filter to mess with
first of all, synthetic oil technology is way better than it used to be. synthetic oil nowadays is FAR superior to dino oil.
I advise a good brand synthetic oil and a purolator gold filter or better (don't get FRAM!)
Forget the timing belt at 100K? It's recommended to be changed at 105K... 150K is horrible advice for changing a timing belt.
Also, it's a good idea to change the transmission fluid.
We all have opinions and I respect everyones, My advise is from experience, I have put many miles on Honda's and each and every one has been in tip top condition when we got rid of them, synthetic oil is great,(although I am not so sure of your claim it is superior to dino) the price is not, and if you change like I do, (3K) it is a waste of money, as for the timing belt, well, I could be wrong, but I am will to bet (just figuratively speaking) that if you pull that belt at 100k it will be like new, You have to remember! some of this maintenance is just a money maker for Honda. And again, we all have opinions, but I have used Fram filters for too many years to remember, never a problem, It has always been a question to me as to how Fram got such a bad rep. about the only problem I have ever had is that the gasket (on top of the filter) will sometimes stick to the engine when changing, and I am sure (I don't know) this happens with other filters as well. Fram has treated me very well, and would really like to see some sound documentation where Fram has let someone down. I take great pride in my vehicles . I do agree that if a synthetic is to be used, buy a good brand, but I see no purpose, unless you are going to run it 25K between changes, NOW! that is abuse, good discussion msn
True, but the whole belt thing, if honda recommends 105k it's probably a good idea to change it. The timing belt is such a crucial part that I would heed the manufacturers warning. Why risk bending your valves?
You shouldn't need to change any oil at 3k miles.
It's pretty interesting that you say that the recommended timing belt maintenance is only a money maker for Honda, yet you're falling for the marketing scheme called the "3000 mile oil change." Now that is just a money-maker. You should be able to use the dino oil for at least 4k miles.
The key word in this statement was "some," and the timing belt is not one of them.
You shouldn't need to change any oil at 3k miles.
It's pretty interesting that you say that the recommended timing belt maintenance is only a money maker for Honda, yet you're falling for the marketing scheme called the "3000 mile oil change." Now that is just a money-maker. You should be able to use the dino oil for at least 4k miles.
The key word in this statement was "some," and the timing belt is not one of them.
Last edited by trustdestruction; Sep 18, 2008 at 05:29 PM.
very true, I know I change the oil a little to often, but then I have put several hundred thousand miles on Honda cars, and never had one use oil, to me Oil is a cheap mechanic! I really don't think I am falling for any Honda scheme as I think the manual recommends 6k change (I could be wrong), and I do my own oil change.
BUT, I do agree with you, it you have the money it is probley a good idea to change the belt. (I stand corrected) , after all, it is a small price to pay, I have never done a belt change, (myself) I think the last one was around 300.00 (I would have to look) and that isn't really too bad. I am not real sure (pretty sure) but I think the only thing that happens when the timing belt breaks is the car quits running, I do not think any damage is done, to the valves or anything else. In the very early days I believe this was a problem but not anymore. I think one of wonderful things about the Honda civic is its simplicity, I am from a different generation, one where cars were ready for overhaul at 60/70k, so this type of performance and reliability is new to me and Yes! it amazes me,
and you guys know it much better than I, and yes I am assuming you are a young person (maybe I'm wrong) but I do think you know your cars, and I am learning from this forum. msn
BUT, I do agree with you, it you have the money it is probley a good idea to change the belt. (I stand corrected) , after all, it is a small price to pay, I have never done a belt change, (myself) I think the last one was around 300.00 (I would have to look) and that isn't really too bad. I am not real sure (pretty sure) but I think the only thing that happens when the timing belt breaks is the car quits running, I do not think any damage is done, to the valves or anything else. In the very early days I believe this was a problem but not anymore. I think one of wonderful things about the Honda civic is its simplicity, I am from a different generation, one where cars were ready for overhaul at 60/70k, so this type of performance and reliability is new to me and Yes! it amazes me,
and you guys know it much better than I, and yes I am assuming you are a young person (maybe I'm wrong) but I do think you know your cars, and I am learning from this forum. msn
Honda d-series engines are interference engines and if the timing belt snaps there is a great chance of major engine damage.
i think that all 4 cylinder honda engines are like that
Yea i'm only 18, but i've learned a lot of information from this forum and from working on my own car. I've been modding my car since I got it when I turned 16 and I've never been into the rice scene, so it's been real mechanical, i/h/e, and electrical modifications; and maintenance all the way... nothing like muffler tips and stuff like that.
lol, first thing I ever did to my car was change the timing belt, with a Haynes manual, basic tools, and no prior under-the-hood experience. Took 3 days to get the crank pulley bolt off. Had my engineer neighbor weld me a device that would hold the pulley... made it out of an old bedframe
i think that all 4 cylinder honda engines are like that
Yea i'm only 18, but i've learned a lot of information from this forum and from working on my own car. I've been modding my car since I got it when I turned 16 and I've never been into the rice scene, so it's been real mechanical, i/h/e, and electrical modifications; and maintenance all the way... nothing like muffler tips and stuff like that.
lol, first thing I ever did to my car was change the timing belt, with a Haynes manual, basic tools, and no prior under-the-hood experience. Took 3 days to get the crank pulley bolt off. Had my engineer neighbor weld me a device that would hold the pulley... made it out of an old bedframe
Last edited by trustdestruction; Sep 18, 2008 at 07:35 PM.


