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Power Window Issue

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  #1  
Old 06-26-2013, 05:06 PM
audieannie's Avatar
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Question Power Window Issue

I have been looking for a long time for an answer, but can't find any that are working for me or helping much....so I tried to be as detailed as possible. I'm not too proud to admit if I did something wrong, so let me know what you think I need to do about this, please!

My 2003 Honda Civic started having issues a few months ago with the rear passenger window. I could roll it down from the driver's side, but I would have to roll it up from the back passenger window control. It will not roll up from the driver's seat at all, but it will roll down. I didn't mind so much since I could still control the window, it just wasn't very convenient.

Now, the driver's side back window isn't working at all. From the front or the back seat controls. I think the motor just stopped working, but since the other window was having issues, I wasn't sure if they were related.

The window has since been detached from the motor, and is currently duct taped "up" so I don't have to drive around with my window open all the time...but I look pretty silly with a duct taped window.

Here is what I have done so far to try and diagnose:
I have purchased the Chilton's car care manual for my car so I could get the wiring diagram.

After taking the driver side door apart and the two rear doors, I don't think the issues are stemming from the switches. I cleaned everything up, but none of the symptoms went away. Everything still works (or doesn't work) as it did before.

I tested the rear driver side window switch on the passenger rear window and it worked, both up and down, so I know the switch for that door is still working.

The rear passenger side switch controls its window just fine, so I don't think anything is wrong with it.

I'm going to order a new master switch for the driver's side door just in case that fixes the issue with being able to control the rear passenger window from the driver's seat.


My next step:

I took a multimeter to the wiring of all 3 doors. I only get a 12V reading from a handful of sockets on all 3 doors. I am new to using a multimeter so maybe I'm not doing it right? (any insight on where I should be testing/sticking the probes for each socket would be appreciated)

Right now, I'm sticking the black probe into the socket that has the big black wire going into it (which I think is "ground" and I'm sticking the red probe into each of the other sockets and looking for a reading--is this the correct method?

For the rear windows, there wasn't a big black cord, so I just tried all the combinations I could of the 2 probes with the 5 sockets. I still only got anything about every 1/5 combinations.

It has taken me a lot to get to this point as far as learning about multimeters/wiring diagrams/etc. All I really know is that the 12.4 V readings tell me that I'm getting power from my car's battery. Since I'm not getting reading from all the sockets, could this be the root of my issue? Or am I just using the multimeter wrong?

If these readings mean nothing, what would be my next trouble-shooting step? I have already checked all the fuses (under the hood and under the dash) and everything with them looks good to go.

Please be as detailed/elementary in your responses as possible. I am new to all this and learning things as I go.
 
  #2  
Old 06-27-2013, 03:29 AM
mk378's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
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The circuit goes through both switches. It probably is the driver's switch, or broken wires between the driver's door and the rest of the car.

Test at the motor, with everything plugged in, put one meter probe on each motor wire (push the points of the probes through the insulation). There should be zero volts until you press the button. Then it would go up to battery voltage to run the motor. If you have voltage but the motor doesn't run, either the motor is bad or the mechanism is jammed.
 
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