Did you already determine that the relay is okay?

 

i havent checked it yet. ill post if i do. thanks
i tried to take the relay out but it was hard so i stopped. ill try again later today

 

alrite ive checked my relay and it seems to be fine. how do i test the main switch. thanks for helping so much, hope this is the problem so i can fix it before i get my license next week.

 

I will need to split the pictures for the master swtich test in two posts.

Good luck

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/F4DD64A69B114FA3A96C64C02C9CEB3A.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/5EBDA3CB1476442793B2EC9495C0E20C.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/EC86D9BCF2244F95A7B28F43F0AE0093.jpg[/IMG]

 

last picture:

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/DCC83108BF5E47F19C7B0CFDDDB74E67.jpg[/IMG]

 

change of scenario. turns out it wasnt the relay or the master switch. the ex-owner disconnected all the wiring in the door panel for some reason. but i connected it all and tested it out. now there is a cranking noise but the window wouldnt budge. do i have to replace my motor?

 

Does other power windows in the car function properly?

 

both the driver and passenger side doesnt work

 

Do both windows make the cranking noise when you push the switch?

The fact that you hear a cranking noise hints that the motor may be functional but the window is stuck. You will need to disconnect the window from the motor and test whether the window then moves freely. If not, your problem may be the window regulator.

With the window disconnected from the motor, you can also test whether the motor functions properly without the window load. If the window regulator is fine, you likely have a bad motor, regardless.

 

the driver side window has a very smooth sound. i sorta sounds like nothings wrong with it but the window still wont come down. on the passenger side, there is a very loud put...put....put sound.